By Celia Fernández-Carnicero
Archie Alled-Martínez is now an accomplished man, at least that's what he says on the phone from his Paris studio . The 29-year-old designer, originally from Barcelona and renowned for his knits, is responsible for the sequined denim jumpsuit worn by Harry Styles on stage at the last Jingle Bell Ball in London. Unsurprisingly, the look nearly overshadowed the launch of the artist's second solo album, Fine Line.
The past two years have been spectacular for Archie Alled-Martínez. A graduate of Central Saint Martins in 2018, he won the LVMH prize, got a job at Givenchy and then launched his own label. Exclusively, he talks about Harry Styles, the challenges for today's young designers and his fall-winter 2019-2020 collection.
"Really, everything happened very quickly. I obtained my Fashion MA at Central Saint Martins in February 2018 and soon after I joined the Givenchy house in Paris. It was there that I understood how much it had nothing to do with a fashion school. Working for this major house allowed me to understand the reality of the industry , not only how you put together a collection, but above all how to keep your feet on the ground. In the spring of 2019, I made the decision to launch my own label because I felt that I could bring more to the industry of fashion by developing my own ideas."
"The Harry Styles team invited me to create a look for a Rolling Stone magazine shoot. They described me in a few words the atmosphere and the references they wanted to put forward (a 70's style, early 80's in particular) which, fortunately, fit perfectly with my own aesthetic vision. Harry gave me carte blanche, which is very rare when collaborating with celebrities. It's exceptional to see such a famous artist, in contract with one of the fashion giants, decide to work with a young designer. It's only by giving a chance to the new faces that the fashion world will succeed in evolving and moving forward."
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"As a designer who specializes in knitwear, the core of my work lies in technique. I am a detail buff and strive to produce impeccably crafted pieces rather than overly designed garments. I have the feeling that fashion becomes more relevant and transparent as we simplify looks. My pieces are objects of desire thanks to the fabrics and techniques used. Jeans may seem banal at first glance , but becomes a unique object on closer inspection, when you realize that it is knitted. It is then that love at first sight strikes, straight to the heart."
"The biggest challenge is learning to say no. We must not accept everything and anything, just because that we still have to prove ourselves. As a young designer, we must learn to follow our own rhythm and remain true to our identity. We cannot follow the rhythm of the big houses, and we must also avoid to try it. If you want to be heard, you have to follow your intuition and not try to produce more and more."
"I really admire what Harry does, claiming a more fluid male aesthetic. As far as I'm concerned, I don't give too much importance to gender codes because I find them old-fashioned. These days, we can no longer deny this fact: gender is only a mirage produced by society. As a designer, I want men and women to feel good in my designs. When I design a piece for myself, I don't think in terms of gender. It's all about how you wear it and how it feels. I want people to feel good in it, not for others, but for themselves."
"In January, I will present my fall-winter 2019-2020 collection during Paris Men's Fashion Week, where we will find Harry's sequined denim jumpsuit I want to evolve my 70's inspiration by giving it a more modern twist, while keeping tailoring and technique at the heart of my remarks. In a universe of ubiquitous brands and fast fashion where only fleeting hype counts, I believe that it is very important to modernize and revisit certain timeless pieces and give them the place they deserve."
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