Paris invaded by vampires: the Dutch duo Viktor&Rolf paid tribute on January 26 to the film Nosferatu by German filmmaker Friedrich-Wilhelm Murnau released a hundred years ago, in their spring-summer 2022 haute couture show full of humor.
“Dracula,” the novel from which the German silent film is based, “is such a powerful symbol of fear in society, of fear of change. AFP Rolf Snoeren, one of the two creators of the duo, at the end of the parade.
The couturiers chose the Théâtre de Chaillot, an Art Deco palace with long columns and gilding, to parade women with exaggeratedly high shoulders and very long nails, creating a comic effect.
The raised shoulder line that hides the neck is clean, both for shirts, jackets and for long evening dresses. "We used a silhouette that we created in 1993. It's a very high-shouldered silhouette, very representative of that intimidating image archetype," added Rolf Snoeren.
The silhouette is rigid but fantasy and color are always present in the duo's spring-summer collection, such as a pink evening dress with a big bow at the waist, a long ruffled dress.
Viktor&Rolf, who will be celebrating 25 years on the Paris catwalks next year, are regulars at message shows with a strong visual signature. "It's essentially our signature: working, playing with proportions, studying volumes. That's why we love haute couture, because it's like a laboratory", emphasizes Rolf Snoeren.