Rabih Kayrouz decrypts the six silhouettes of his collection Haute Couture<

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With his stitching gaze, Rabih Kayrouz sublimates the female body like nobody else. On the occasion of the presentation of his collection Haute Couture, the Lebanese designer decrypts the pieces he imagined in his Parisian studio.

This Monday, July 5, marks the beginning of Haute Couture Week in Paris. For five days, designers will present their new sewing collections, through a traditional parade or intimate meeting with professionals in the sector, followed by a digital presentation. This is the second option chosen by Rabih Kayrouz. The Lebanese designer, who unveiled his original short film at 6 p.m., says he has finally adapted to this new format, initially imposed by restrictions due to the health crisis. "finally, I find that you can see the clothing better through a photo or video than during a parade. When you watch the clothing move through a screen, it's as if you had it at home. My goal is to convey the emotion that I invest in my creation and I feel that with a certain direction and a well-chosen music, you pass on a lot, "he says. Interested in the primary function of the garment rather than trends, the designer wanted to rework the timeless of his brand sewing. "when I design a collection, I Don't think through the prism of ready-to-wear or sewing. It is by developing the piece, choosing the fabrics and doing some tests that it moves towards one or the other. For me, sewing is not a fantasy of inaccessible evening dresses, it is a skill. That's what I wanted to highlight in this collection. A line that the creator analyzes piece by piece.

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The black coat

"I took back elements from our timeless dressing room with the idea of magnifying them through a Haute Couture work. For this coat, I took inspiration from a long cardigan whose spirit I picked up casually, but which I expanded as much as I could to instill a more dramatic aspect. For this purpose, it is made of cashmere with handwoven velvet fringes. "

The trench

"I have taken over exactly the same trench that already exists at Maison Rabih Kayrouz. I laid it down and filled it with memories. These are a lot of little things that I picked up and moulded into gold before embroidering them on the coat to give it a little more intimate dimension. I call them my souvenir embroidery. "

The day dress

"for this dress, I was inspired by a classic black dress of which I took over the cut, but which I reworked with tulle and always with this notion of memories. Here they take the form of small bouquets of dried flowers enclosed under the fabric. Over time, they will probably lose their leaves and the suspended pink threads will become frayed. I like this idea of a dress that changes over time. "

The black dress

"it is a dress made of cotton gauze, enhanced by hand gardening at the ends of the garment. It is a perfectly made and perfectly durable piece that I thought of as a garment that could be passed on. "

Blazer's jacket

"by appearance, this is a very classic blazer jacket. But you only need to change one aspect to transform it completely. Here, I removed his back to add a touch of exaggeration to a room with a fairly simple appearance. It then becomes an evening tuxedo, to be worn on the skin or with a delicate top below. "

The trench sans manches

"this is the only piece in the collection that is not inspired by an existing piece. I worked on a trench cut, respecting all his codes, but removing his sleeves. He becomes a kind of poncho, a brand-new poncho. I also scratched it with personal memories. It's a figure I'll take back in the ready-to-wear line. "