Paco Rabanne, Jacquemus, Marc Jacobs… When Fashion Week plays extensions<

There are no more seasons, says the adage!And, obviously, no more official calendar of fashion weeks.While Parisian male fashion week ended on June 27, and haute couture is about to take over on July 4, three creators have chosen to present their new collection apart, parades for Marc Jacobs and Jacquemus(June 28 and 30) and on video for Paco Rabanne (June 29).Burning the tracks a little more, Julien Dossena for Paco Rabanne presented his female spring-summer 2022, Jacquemus his mixed proposal for the fall-winter 2021-2022, while Marc Jacobs unveiled a female fall-winter 2021 collection2022.

Eloimated from the podiums since February 2020, the latter has invested the Manhattan public library for a parade with audience broadcast live on the brand's social networks.Could it be the rather severe confinements in New York in recent months which would have inspired him this collection articulated around loose and protective clothes?Large coats with a XXL logo, extra-light hoods, pants with disproportionate legs, superposition of layers, imposing jackets and long-split long dresses ... The creator does in excess and adds to this winter panoply a palette of electric colors, pink firecrackerwith fluorescent yellow.A collection in which the Jacobs paw is nestled in detail-platform shoes with vibrant prints.

Julien Dossena took the direction of Monaco to present his female line Paco Rabanne from the summer of 2022, taking ahead of the September Fashion Week.It is on the roof of the Monaco auditorium congress center, which overlooks the Mediterranean, that the creator takes us.Here, the Hungarian plastic artist Victor Vasarely imagined Hexa Grace, a ceramic mosaic of 24,000 diamonds with 14 brilliant colors, commanded to the artist by Grace de Monaco in 1979.

“We worked in collaboration with the Vasarely Foundation.There is a real cultural and temporal affinity between Vasarely and Paco Rabanne.In the collection, I wanted to try to balance sensuality, the sea, the primary side of the heat of the sun on the skin, the feeling more than the abstract, and on the other hand the theoretical radical of optical artde Vasarely.This tension is for me the exact balance of what Paco Rabanne should be, "explains Julien Dossena, met in the brand's showroom, a few days before the broadcast of the video.

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The OP art patterns thus invite themselves on colorful dresses, with sensuality exacerbated by games of cutting on the belly or hips.Fluid and solar, the collection highlights aerial parts worked in flexible materials such as mesh, jersey or velvet.Sometimes directly encrusted in the collar of dresses or the size of the skirts, the jewelry provides light and a sensuality that evokes the freedom and carelessness of the 1970s.

Finally, Simon Porte Jacquemus presented his fall-winter 2021-2022 man and woman in the studios of the City of Cinema, in Saint-Denis (Seine-Saint-Denis), June 30.Called "La Montagne", the latter had a green hill, around which the 108 guests were arranged.In the first row, rappers of the moment - Damso, Sch -, the influencer and friends of the house - Tina Kunakey, Jeanne Damas or even the singer Angèle.On the podium, stars models, from Kendall Jenner to Bella Hadid.

Inspired by trek and ski clothes, the creator mixes technical details and "tailoring" spirit without putting aside the sexy, his trademark.Fuseau inspiration pants, short jackets and down jackets, lamb jackets with shortened proportions, ribbed meshes, cyclists shorts, superimposition games ... Colors, brilliant pink with blue layette via deep khaki, intensify the whole.A rich and complete winter wardrobe ... which will soon be in season.