A thousand and one versions of femininity at Fashion Week<

(New York) From the length and prints of Tory Burch to the thongs and PVC of Namilia, New York Fashion Week on Sunday saw femininity expressed in different registers.

To open the day, Tory Burch presented a collection inspired by porcelain, under the eyes of actresses Julianne Moore and Lucy Liu.

It was both a question of the French, Turkish and English versions of this art, but also of the sculptures of the New Yorker Francesca DiMattio, who uses this material.

The artist designed the prints used for the collection, at the request of Tory Burch, who appreciates the ability of her drawings to "blur the boundaries between femininity and masculinity", she explained to AFP.

Some of these patterns have brought a touch of radicality to which the American designer is unaccustomed, whose bohemian chic universe usually remains restrained.

In general, Tory Burch has taken more risks this season, especially with these hybrid dresses, between fresh floral composition and total darkness.

Porn actresses

A few light years away from the refinement of Tory Burch, the Namilia house delivered a much more outrageous vision of femininity starring pornographic actresses.

Asa Akira, Marica Hase and Jade Kush were the stars of this parade, in which the Pornhub porn video platform was the partner.

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Nothing revolutionary for the Berlin designer duo Nan Li and Emilia Pfohl, whose first collection, in 2015, was titled My Pussy, My Choice.

"Our brand is geared towards sex positivity and challenging boundaries," Nan Li told AFP after the show.

For this collection, called Herotica, Namilia played with porn imagery as defined by men, but also with Westerners' representation of Asia, where Nan Li is from.

Noodle box woman, with cascading fringe, biker-style thigh-high boots, ultra-mini skirt and cheerleader top with embroidered pompoms on the chest, Namilia delighted the overexcited audience.

Walk in the desert

Based in New York, model-like Iowa-born designer Jeffrey Dodd was inspired this season by a trip to the American Southwest.

"For me, the desert is a utopian place where I let my guard down and where I feel the most comfortable," the designer told AFP after the show.

In particular, he declined the clay colors of the ground and the turquoise of the sky that he was able to observe there.

Accustomed to a style without eccentricity, Jeffrey Dodd has dared more this season, especially with fringes in shambles and asymmetry.

"I've finally gotten to the point where I'm not afraid to be myself anymore," he said.

New York Fashion Week continues through Wednesday.