Today, Zegna must also express himself on social subjects<

Comme beaucoup de maisons au patrimoine exceptionnel, Ermenegildo Zegna a longtemps préféré, pour sa communication, mettre en avant ses fabuleux costumes et son savoir-faire séculaire. Mais à l’ère des réseaux sociaux, quelle entreprise peut encore rester à l’écart des débats de société? Spécialement, si elle veut capter l’attention des jeunes générations résolues à partager les valeurs des marques qu’elles achètent.

Change of tactics… on the site of the leader of male ready-to-wear, in a small video entitled “What do it mean to be a man Today?”(What does it mean to be a man today?), Ermenegildo Zegna, CEO and third generation at the head of the family company, explains: "As a timeless clothing manufacturer for 110 years, we know that'To this question, there is not only one answer.At Zegna, we want to advance cultural and social dialogue around contemporary masculinity.With this advertising campaign, our goal is to arouse discussions and not to impose new truths.»This is said.Very invested, the artistic and child director of the Alessandro Sartori house received us, a few days ago, very close to his Milanese offices, around a pasta dish, to speak change of mentality, clichés on virility and customer relations.

LE FIGARO.- so far the house Ermenegildo Zegna has been discreet on societal issues.Why this campaign?

Alessandro Sartori. - Il est vrai que jusqu’ici nous avons dédié notre énergie à promouvoir la qualité de nos produits et notre savoir-faire exceptionnel.Which has also successful.But times change and Zegna, as a claw that has been dressing men for over a hundred years, must accompany these developments.From now on, the public expects brands that they express themselves on their values, that they take a position on the subjects that agitate society, discrimination, global warming, etc..But it is not all to communicate, you have to be legitimate, to believe in what we say.However, these issues have been at the heart of our company since the creation of the first spinning in 1910, in Trivero.

How?

Through humans.The founder Ermenegildo Zegna, even if he made his company generate profit, thus built housing - more than a thousand in the 1940s.He also built a hospital, schools, and initiated a reforestation program from 1930.For us, the preservation of the environment and social progress are part of our development.

These values also translate into the particular bond that the claw maintains with its customers.

Exactement. À l’instar de notre équipe de tailleurs qui, au sein de notre atelier de grande mesure et pour notre ligne de demi-mesure, voyagent à travers le monde pour rencontrer nos clients spéciaux. Au fil des essayages, ils entrent peu à peu dans leur intimité. Cette relation dépasse le fait de pousser la porte d’une de nos boutiques pour acheter un vêtement. Elle consiste à travailler ensemble pour créer quelque chose d’unique. Je participe moi-même, quand mon emploi du temps me le permet, à ces rendez-vous. Notre mission est alors d’écouter et de partager.

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What do these men tell you?

Dressing questions the image that we refer to others.Many of them want to project a better reflection of themselves.Their issues have nourished our internal conversations.As an international brand with more than 480 stores in the world, for us, diversity is not marketing.It is a fact.We work on a daily basis for men of different morphologies, origins and cultures, whether they are a political leader, high -level sportsman, actor or simply a future husband in search of a particular costume for his marriage.This is the message we wanted to express through the #Whatmakesaman campaign.And to embody it, we were not looking for any muse but authentic men, customers, friends of the house.I met the actor Mahershala Ali in 2016 when he defended the moonlightlors film of the campaign for the Oscars.He went to the Los Angeles store.Then he won the statuette of the best actor in a supporting role.Meanwhile, he had become our client for and outside the red carpets.When I told him about the project, he was thrilled.What he says in these videos is absolutely not written.It is a personal testimony, his vision of masculinity that we fully share.

Express yourself on diversity is also a way of capturing the young audience?

Indeed, we have noticed that through the thousands of returns we have received, including very touching letters from the four corners of the globe, the commitment to this question is not necessarily linked to the country of origin but rather toage.The youngest prove to be very open, passionate and inclined to share their experiences.Conversely, negative reactions, those who refuse to evoke the subject are generally among the oldest.Of course, engaging on this ground is risky: expressing an opinion can cut us off from some of our customers.But we have chosen to open the debate.

Do you feel that mentalities are evolving?

We cannot deny the repercussions of the #MeToo movement on the male gent.Likewise, the economic crisis since 2009, global warming force us to question our lifestyles, our certainties and our prejudices.Sometimes negative events cause positive advances!But while the image of women changes significantly - look at the very beautiful parade of the Rihanna lingerie line, celebrating today's diversity and femininity - with regard to men, we are far from body positivism.The cliché of the virile male with, on her arm, the perfect woman at the wheel of the perfect sports car has a hard life.Nevertheless, I think things change little by little.I don't want to say that you have to show ugliness but be benevolent and open -minded.

And you, what kind of man are you?

Even if twenty years ago, a certain fragility could scare me, as I get older, I cultivate it and I am looking for it in others.Behind, he often has depth, roughness that gives more strength to a personality.Maybe because I am Italian, I am also very passionate and I like this contrast.Men should more often express their contradictions.

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