11/06/2022
By binternet
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Parade - Schiaparelli - Fall -Winter 2018-2019 Couture<

It is the seventh and the most beautiful SchiaParelli collection by Bertrand Guyon, since his arrival in the house (property of Diego Della Valle).The most extravagant too.As if the discreet French felt, finally, enough at ease to give free rein to his creativity."It feels good to let go and go towards something more theatrical," he confides at the end of the show.We are gaining importance in the current landscape and have projects that are still too confidential to talk about it, but the future smiles at us. "During his exploration of the archives, the stylist came across photographs by Elsa Schiaparelli in eccentric evening outfits, she who, the day, in her salons in Place Vendôme, only wore strict black dresses."I wanted to talk about her as a woman," continues Mr. Guyon.Elsa Schiaparelli was a whimsical character, which her little daughter confirmed to me, Marisa Berenson. "

Thus, on the podium, the day proposals play the card of sobriety (relative) like the Italian seamstress: split velvet skirt, jacket rebroded with glass pearls, narrow shoulders, size taken. In the evening, the colors explodes, from shocking pink to overdose on a xxxl coat in moire and its wolf cut in the same fabric, leggings in sequins with leopard pattern drip under the knee in Fluo Stabilo scrolls, a ball ball Facets, clowning pants in cardboard silk and references to the animal world, everywhere, in all forms. Schiap loved animals, for the record, she went so far as to write the memories of her dog! The Hatter Stephen Jones signs a bestiary of breathtaking masks, initially designed to be headdresses - rabbit head, fox -terrier, couple of flamingos in love are all artifices to wear for a surreal ball. Katie Grant, she advised Bertrand Guyon on the show. "Exchanging with such talents is enriching," concludes the French who offers the services of the British consultant for the second time. This is also what is the strength of a season. " The Garnier Palace, either, is not a stranger to it. Since John Galliano's spring-summer 1998 parade for Dior, no brand had shown a Couture at the Opera collection. Schiap, after six presentations delivered Place Vendôme, jumped at the opportunity to give his first real, large, show. More space on the podium, more magnitude in the volumes of dresses. A thunderous applause, the stars were aligned.