Parade-Christian Dior-sewing Spring / Summer 2014<

In fashion, the future is often a retro concept, an echo of the lost optimism of the sixties. Not at Christian Dior, to whom RAF Simons offers a revolutionary parade, both in terms of construction, fineness, finishes and accessories. "this is how the house would have evolved if Mr. Dior had known the 1960s," says Simons, who set himself the slogan of piercing, perforating and cutting almost every one of the fifty-two silhouettes in his parade. "this is the way the house would have evolved if Mr. Dior had known the 1960s," says Simons. Tuxedo in white cotton streaked with tiny vertical slits, curvilinear ball dress constellated with carnations or even cocktail dress in naval blue organza with circular cuts: all this reminds the French architecture of the middle of the last century, while the openings that abound reveal in turn delicate embroideries, pearls or crystalline flowers. A collection that almost flies away, thanks to the incredible lightness that Raf Simons instilled, with its organzas of silk feather weight and its cottons. A collection that is almost flying away, thanks to the incredible lightness instilled by Raf Simons, with its organzas of silk feather and its cottons.A collection that almost flies away, thanks to the incredible lightness instigated by Raf Simons, with its organzas of silk feather and cottons The whole seems to be floating; this impeccable realization shows a designer in full possession of his workshop. While the first passages deliberately pay tribute to Dior's canons and iconic silhouette, Simons also risks unexpected Flamenco forms and other romantic ball sleeves with theatrical charm. Presented in an entirely white cocoon space, the collection emits an intimate atmosphere. "sensual, romantic, feminine, but also gridded, geometrical," declares the Belgian designer, whose surprisingly young casting includes about ten teenage girls who take their first steps in sewing. Special mention to shoes-the ones from the previous Dior collections had something agreed upon. These Louis XVI escarpines in high-tech silver metal or these sneakers couture adorned with miniature floral embroidery are all ideas that will certainly emulate and prove that with Simons, Dior is returning to its vocation: to be a true fashion laboratory.

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