02/06/2022
By binternet
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Parade-Bottega Veneta-ready-to-wear fall / Winter 2020-2021<

Daniel Lee's new parade for Bottega Veneta was probably one of the most expected of this Milan fashion week. Appointed in June 2018 to the artistic direction, the Britishman managed in two seasons to redefine the aesthetics of the Italian luxury house, thanks in particular to the success of his first bag, the Pouch. Four awards at the fashion British Awards later, his third show was part of "what we did before". Even though this time leather is giving way to textiles, stretch cotton, jersey and mesh. Singularity of this new collection, the parade first introduces young men, slender, in stretched coats, jacket with too long sleeves and bootcut trousers almost sweeping the floor. The fourth passage, a young girl, takes over the first look with the buttons. Beyond the commonly accepted discourse in the luxury of the genderfluid, it is proof, here, that the expectations of chic and comfort, post-streetwear, are the same for new generations regardless of their gender. To shake this cloakroom with BCBG roots, Lee exploits the fringes on mesh dresses or shearling coats to lengthen the silhouette and exacerbate the movement. But also transparencies, curtain dresses, touches of anise green and Trafalgar red that decimate the gaze. One finds, in Daniel Lee, the radicality of the 1990s adapted to the metropolises of a globalised world, and fed by the sensuality dear to Bottega Veneta, the house of intrecciato (this technique of braiding leather). "from the beginning, we've been going back to our archives as far as possible. This legacy is a wonderful source of inspiration. This time I was obsessed with the softness, the flexibility of the first bags, at a time when all the models were very structured and rigid. "

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