As we were closing, it was too early to know if Wonder Boy, Anissa Bonnefont's film retracing the story of Olivier Rousteing, born under X in 1986 and in search of his biological mother, will have won the César for best documentary. Emerging from this experience, the artistic director of Balmain plunges back, for his autumn-winter collection, into his memories of childhood in Bordeaux, when, a black child adopted by a white family, he scrutinizes this provincial bourgeoisie which fascinates him. “I wanted to pay tribute to my France and to this Bordeaux elite which did not open its doors to me, confides the young Frenchman. It is a new bourgeois, sophisticated, open to the world and without prejudice that I dress now. She goes on a picnic, rides a horse, but she remains a warrior, a Balmain woman. On the music side, Rousteing indulges with a playlist of hits from the 1980s, from Goldman to Balavoine via France Gall and Indochine, titles evocative of its history. The wardrobe, more up-to-date and lighter than usual, is well calibrated, cool and precious, with two-tone cardigans with shoulder pads and golden buttons, scarf shirts and ascots, Anne Sinclair-style mohair sweaters. “A tribute to Carole Bouquet too,” he concludes, moved. Émilie Faure
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