"My job, at Balenciaga, is to modernize the elements of the past to seduce today's consumers.An exercise that I could never have achieved without Paris, explains Demna Gvasalia, at the end of her parade located in the City of Cinema, in Saint-Denis.I fell in love with this city since I left to live in Switzerland.And it was its inhabitants that I see in the street that inspired me this collection.»It is a day taken on the countdown that sequences this parade-flow of 109 looks (which brings together next winter and the pre-Spring 2020): evening outfits (an impeccable female tailor costume with sleeves mounted in offset), from theDay (coats in leather collar shawl filled to damage, jogging stockings right for men, parkas prince-de-(literally night (gray velvet bathrobes, pajama shirts) and,New, evening (a red silk blouse dress, a black hooded suit)… They wear organic store paper bags, small bags of lady in crossbody, leather bags at the tip.On the backs of the jackets, the front of the t-shirts, the label is enrolled in the capital derived from the capital.Little Eiffel Towers cling to the ears lobes."I Love Paris" is printed on the gloves ... There are a few seasons, Gvasalia had given with his own brand, clothes, a Parisian Houellebecquian interpretation, as if her models fuck the RER quays.This time, the casting is more or less the same but these individuals are rather anchored on the cheap side, even if there remains a sociological reading of clothing.The artistic director who has often been cataloged as a conceptualist rather than a designer said recently in WWD that he knew how to cut a jacket with his own hands.This tailoring mixed with its popular appropriations (drawn from souvenir shops, therefore) is, once again, powerful.Music (a cover of blue words in industrial version), Stroboscopic light end up diving the spectator into this Balenciaguesque experience.Masterful.
Hélène Guillaume
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