• 28/07/2022
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Male mode: The costume takes liberties Closing the panel Open the feather panel Le Figaro App -icon - 512px V1 1 - Style/Logotypes/Le Figaro/Apps/Games<

By Frédéric Martin-Bernard published, updated

To costumes displaying a visual unit from head to toe, creators prefer false coordinates that allow more diversity in carrying it.

A maze of mirrors that fragmented the silhouette, show the clothes from other angles and seem to multiply the possible combinations between top and bottom ... Last June, at the Tennis Club de Paris, such was the decor of the Dior Homme show, strikinga break with previous parades.Rupture in the format of the presentation, less linear than in the past.And, above all, rupture in terms of the composition of this spring-summer 2014 collection, under the seal of eclecticism rather than articulated around a flagship season.The sleeves play on different lengths from the wrist to the biceps.The stockings oscillate between length pants and Bermuda length.Flas in color and inlaid tissues, between cubism and random patchwork, strengthen this impression of diversity.In filigree, it is also the idea that jacket and pants should not necessarily be in the same tone or fabric to fulfill the costume function.

"Offering the maximum choice seems to me today a minimum in luxury," explains Kris Van Assche, artistic director of Dior Homme.As part of the parade, a collection is always presented in a precise way, emphasizing silhouettes, clothing associations, but I wanted to get the message that can be appropriated in a waydifferent.This spring-summer season is also the very first that I approached piece by piece, and not by reflecting in terms of look.On fall-winter 2014-2015, I develop this idea more, because men are today very autonomous.At least, those who are interested in fashion have nothing to envy women in the art of associating different clothes.They no longer systematically take refuge in the costume - “uniform” outfit par excellence which avoids asking too many questions of style and agreements in front of the ice.»»

"Discreet fantasies"»

On the catwalks, these jacket and pants sets which are not costumes proper, are omnipresent without jumping to the eyes.In Prada, these false coordinates are put on shirts printed with tropical flowers, palms and other naiads on the background of sunset.In fact, we do not immediately notice that the duos of crossed blazers and pants with pliers that accompany them display the same scratches on bottoms with different deaf tones.At each passage, chromatic associations are renewed.They seem to suggest others.Including in real life, without running a great risk of lack of taste, if we stick to this subtle range of nuances all Prada.But who has a budget to replace all its dressing room at the start of the season?Above all, what a pity to dress from a single brand, while the collections of various houses are always responding a little!And thus offer the possibility of shaping much more personal looks.

In male mode, originality often goes first through the material.Rather than the same course fabric in CAP, wire thread armor in different colors are used for jackets, while the pants are displayed in drapery rather united in the collections of the season of Giorgio Armani, Berluti, Brioni, Ports 1961 or Louis Vuitton.At Canali, it's the opposite.The stockings are available in fabrics with ties and other elaborate weaving that draw discreet graphics in All Over.A bias shared by Stefano Pilati, as part of his first collection as artistic director of Ermenegildo Zegna, via jacquard pants between mats and brilliants of the same tone."I wanted to develop this idea of Broken follows (mismatched suit, editor's note)," he also justified at the end of the show, because men are now going beyond the head connection panoply. Ils se laissent aller à de discrètes fantaisies…»» Pour Hermès, Véronique Nichanian répond aussi à cette évolution à travers sa proposition.Its summer parade 2014 begins with subtly decorated costumes.And ends with sublime dressed sets which are made up of crossed blazers in cotton serge, to which reprinted pants up with scarves in very close tones.At Dsquared, Tom Ford or Louis Vuitton, this trend at the up and down which make the pair without being identical is also taken up until the evening outfits.