MANAN MAND MODE: When Sicily was Spanish at Dolce & Gabbana<

(AFP) - Alors que Dolce&Gabbana s'inspirent de l'influence espagnole sur leur chère Sicile entre 1516 et 1713, leurs collègues restent résolument modernes, prenant comme modèles architectes, sculpteurs ou rockers bien de notre siècle, au premier jour des défilés milanais de prêt-à-porter masculin pour l'été prochain.

Ermenegildo Zegna: Stefano Pilati chose architecture, and in particular that of the Greek island of Paros, as a source of inspiration and such as skyscrapers, the silhouettes offered by the Italian designer are only finesse and slenderness, accentuated byvertical stripes, omnipresent in the collection.Designed as the means of "illustrating an exercise in style in which formality and free time breathe the same acute look specific to summer", they are all costumes.At the size of the pants or at the bottom of the t-shirts, real/false straps that neglect on the hips, as if to refine them.Very present also, the silk scarf and with a cashmere pattern, tight around the neck, which blends almost in the collar of the shirt, closed high.Rather dark, classic colors, straight cuts, for a Zegna man to whom functional and practice imports, where clothing "embodies social structures, business logics".

National costume: a little more audacity at Costume National, for whom the creator Ennio Capasa, always very inspired by rock and the 1970s, thirsts for "elegance lively".From Mick Jagger to David Bowie, from Lou Reed to Bob Dylan, from John Lennon to Jimmy Hendrix and Keith Richard, the man must "free himself from patterns and clichés, surprise by a song of freedom".Hence a lot of leather or returned skin, matte colors - a lot of blue, from the lagoon to almost mauve but also purple or brick red - but also immaculate white, from feet to.The scarf clings to the wrist and the very open jacket, is worn without anything below.The materials - viscose, crêpe de China - give bikers' jackets, a vintage nothing, a crazy charm.

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— Mohamed Elsayed Elarby Tue Feb 21 13:19:02 +0000 2017

Dolce&Gabbana : Ambiance arènes de Las Ventas à Madrid, peñas et castagnettes, boléro et corrida, Domenico Dolce et Stefano Gabbana n'ont pas fait dans la dentelle au cours de ce défilé estival très "olé olé".The men paraded to the sound of the pasodoble with bullfighting jackets and pants arriving in mid-molecord with black embroidery that José Tomas or Jesulin de Ubrique would not deny.On large silk blouses with three-quarter sleeves, a Macarena virgen or a toro, and large peas, black on a red background or vice versa, dress the three-room costumes.

Men: Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch, advocating an "urban elegance" with the "taste of steel" by taking as models the sculptures of the American artist Richard Serra, bet on a sportswear which would like to be sophisticated.This is how the duo dares the work combination so chic that the tie is.Dark color palette - from oil to black, with a few chick yellow touches -, and materials that shine or snap like neoprene.Bermudas are worn like shorts, in the knee and models, whose hair is styled in rockabilly "banana", wear wide blouses, short sleeves, cut up to pockets by horizontal strips of color.

The day had to end with the Versace collection.The parades continue on Sunday, notably with Bottega Veneta, Salvatore Ferragamo, Vivienne Westwood, Missoni and Prada.