The jacket is knit<

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Fashionable for several seasons, the Perfecto, bombers and other pieces with sleeves are renewed, cut in various knitwear.

It's hard to escape the knit jacket which is, this season, the essential piece of a men's collection. Alternately a short unstructured jacket, a cardigan with large leather buttons or even a belted vest, its stitches oscillate between large gauges for generous knits and more compact ribs for a smooth finish similar to jersey. On the technical level, all these materials, made up of a sequence of loops theoretically known to spin, are today mastered and worked exactly like warp and weft (generic name given, as opposed to knit, to all fabrics which cross threads in the direction of length and width). Cut into pieces, then made, these cut and sewn knits take the form of a Perfecto jacket at CostumeNational, a bomber jacket at Dolce & Gabbana or a double-breasted jacket, like a short duffle coat in heavy wool, at Ermenegildo Zegna…

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The flight is not only Italian, nor exclusively reserved for creators. In recent days, its presence has also been noticed in the windows of Lacoste, Diesel and Celio. The knit is in tune with the mood of the moment. Added to this are technical progress and the fact that these gentlemen are taking more and more of a liking to the shapes of short-sleeved and bloused pieces, which are therefore practical.

A style between rustic and "tailoring"

“Yesterday, the wool cardigan with a shawl collar clearly had grandpa connotations,” notes Marcel Lassance, artistic director of the men's collections at the Parisian concept store Merci. Today, it is perceived as a sophisticated version of the hooded jacket for urban thirties. Gilles Peter, senior men's buyer at Galeries Lafayette, also sees the influence of women's fashion here. “Trends are increasingly unisex and transversal,” he observes. Thus, comfortable knitted pieces are now part of the men's wardrobe. The style bureau StyleSight speaks of humble harvest about this current, referring to the American painter, Grant Wood, whose paintings made in the 1930s represent the rural Midwest. And to evoke a desire for natural fibres, from casual rustic crossed to chic tailoring which translates into hybrid models bringing together these two currents... A style, developed for several seasons by Junya Watanabe whose jackets and jackets, this winter, at three buttons and patch pockets in cut and sewn knit will appeal to contemporaries who appreciate both (re) seeing Manhattan by Woody Allen and reading L'Équipe. a suit at work, but must still be well dressed”, abounds Mathieu de Ménonville, co-founder of the Parisian label Melinda Gloss, whose customers acclaim the jackets in merino and royal by alpaca wool with chic finishes and ribbing. Sergio Corneliani, creative director of the eponymous Italian brand, also speaks of "breaking down the barrier between formal clothing and luxury outerwear to give birth to refined knits with very light weights, to be worn under a jacket and even under a suit to play down the formal aspect or, at on the contrary, very heavy knits for a renewed outdoor use, sporty but sophisticated in contrast with the jackets in technical materials”.

A new "city mesh"

Within the Corneliani collection, there are voluminous cable-knit or patchwork cardigans of different stitches, as well as waistcoats fastened with horn buttons or a zip. Prince of Wales check, while a version in compact jersey with a shiny look puts it in a more sophisticated, even sporty retro register at Prada.

Elegance, both supple and structured, seems to be the secret of the knit that has suddenly moved to the side of “sleeved pieces”. Until adopting the urban codes and, even, the colors of the city with a strong dominance of gray. However, some models retain a technical side by doubling performance fabric, microfleece or quilted flannel to be ultrawarm and windproof, like the proposals of the Italian brand Esemplare (on sale at Merci). A new “city mesh” to follow very closely, therefore. Especially since it is also illustrated in the peacoat, the duffle coat and the parka. They too have been nicely updated thanks to cut and sewn.

The undershirt takes over

Throughout the fashion shows of the season, all these fine knits slipped under jackets replacing shirts recall fashions that those under 30 do not know. First, the Pierre Cardin style in the mid-1960s, then the Drugstore twinks and all surroundings of Janson de Sailly... On screen, it's Sean Connery in a few old James Bonds, even Paul Michael Glaser and DavidSoul in the Starsky and Hutch series from 1975. More recently, the artist Philippe Katerine who overplays the style retro clothing in its appearances, both in the city and on stage, has brought to light these tight-fitting tops which were originally knitted with rather chemical yarns. In the 2011 version, the under-sweater retains only the very colorful aspect of its past. In many collections, it illuminates a darker silhouette with its bright tones. Sometimes, it plays the twin-sets by coordinating with a cardigan or a cardigan. Everywhere, it is woven with wool or cashmere which allows it to be worn next to the skin without itching. Exactly like a shirt