Haute couture, instructions for use<

Each fashion season is now punctuated by a multitude of parades. Between Couture Week, Cruise fashion shows and fashion weeks, there is enough to make you dizzy. This week, it's haute couture that parades in Paris. But what exactly is haute couture? We tell you everything.

In fashion, more than elsewhere, it is very bad to mix towels and tea towels. This week, in Paris, it is the fashion houses that are parading.

But who parades during Couture Week? How are the houses selected? And what is the difference between haute couture and ready-to-wear? We tell you everything.

Criteria

To be part of the restricted circle of haute couture, houses must respect certain very strict criteria. These rules were established at the end of the Second World War: bespoke work must be done by hand by a minimum of 20 employees divided into two workshops, the flou (dedicated to dresses) and the tailor (dedicated to jackets ), to create at least 25 models.

In the 1990s, these conditions were relaxed to give young talents a chance.

Members

The designation “haute couture” is currently reserved for 15 houses that meet a certain number of criteria.

The historical permanent members are Chanel, Christian Dior, Adeline André, Jean Paul Gaultier, Giambattista Valli, Maison Margiela, Stéphane Rolland, Alexis Mabille, Alexandre Vauthier, Maurizio Galante and Franck Sorbier. Last December, Julien Fournié and Schiaparelli were also admitted to this very restricted circle for the first time.

Corresponding members from abroad are Fendi, Elie Saab, Giorgio Armani, Valentino and Viktor & Rolf.

Guests

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In addition to these houses, the fashion show program welcomes “guest members” each season who do not necessarily meet these criteria and can do ready-to-wear. This allows these guest labels to present their collections to buyers earlier.

This season, 16 houses have this guest status, including 5 new ones. In particular, two flagship American brands, Proenza Schouler and Rodarte, which left New York fashion week for Paris and presented their Spring-Summer 2018 collections on Sunday.

The invited members are, this season: Proenza Schouler, Rodarte, Xuan, Ronald Van Der Kemp, Belgians from AF Vandervorst, Galia Lahav, Guo Pei, Azzaro Couture, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Iris Van Herpen, Georges Hobeika, Ralph&Russo, Antonio Grimaldi, Ulyana Sergeenko, Yuma Nakazato, Zuhair Murad and Hyun Mi Nielsen

Schedule

The term "haute couture" originated in 1945. Haute couture shows are held exclusively in Paris and do not follow the same schedule as ready-to-wear shows. These take place over four weeks (fashion week) in New York, London, Milan and Paris, in February and September. Haute couture is in January for the Spring-Summer collections and July for the Autumn-Winter.

This protected designation rewards creations made by hand and made to measure, which can require hundreds of hours of work on the part of craftsmen and are only accessible to ultra-wealthy clients.

New name

These haute couture fashion shows coincide with a name change for the Federation which organizes them.

The former name of "French Federation of Couture, Ready-to-Wear Couturiers and Fashion Designers" has been simplified to make way for the "Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion".

A new name that “highlights haute couture, remarkable French uniqueness and fashion in its most creative forms. It celebrates both creation and innovation, know-how in all its components, art and technology,” the Federation said in a press release.

The haute couture shows are traditionally followed by presentations by seven high jewelry houses (Boucheron, Chanel, Chaumet, Chopard, De Beers, Dior, Louis Vuitton).