Haute couture: "Barriers are falling"<

Imane Ayissi. Here is a name and a face set to settle permanently in the firmament of French creation and luxury. And for good reason. At 51, the couturier, a jack-of-all-trades artist, has just been selected as a guest member of the official Parisian haute couture calendar*. This is the first time that a national from sub-Saharan Africa has been selected to join the very closed circle of major fashion houses. Former dancer – of the National Ballet of Cameroon in the company of Patrick Dupont –, model for the biggest luxury brands (Dior, Lanvin, Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent…), Imane Ayissi is considered today as one of the most great fashion designers. What makes it special? In 27 years of career, he dug deep the furrow of a fashion inspired by Africa, in general, and his native Cameroon in particular. How ? Imane Ayissi makes it a point of honor to deconstruct stereotypes to show all the diversity within African societies. Crazy about Vionnet and Balenciaga, influenced by his years in the ballet corps, but just as passionate about African textile heritage, Imane Ayissi likes to combine traditions: those of French haute couture and those of "academic" know-how. and the treasures from a flamboyant and centuries-old artisanal heritage. Very sensitive to environmental issues, Imane Ayissi uses natural and often organic ways as much as possible, with the lowest possible impact. He favors organic cottons, vegetable-tanned leathers or textiles dyed with natural ingredients or printed in an artisanal way. We met him at the end of September during Paris fashion week. It was in the showroom of Lago54**, an agency directed by Emmanuelle Courrèges and which proposes to be at the service of African brands selected for their authenticity, their creativity and their high level quality. It is very moved that he announced the news to us…

Le Point Afrique: When did you hear the news of your selection as a guest member of the official haute couture calendar by the French Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion?

Imane Ayissi: I learned about it on November 26, a few days after the meeting of the commission which examines the applications.

How did you react ? What did you feel ?

I was obviously very happy, and quite proud after these years of work and effort. I also thought of my friend Katoucha, who unfortunately passed away too soon, who always supported and encouraged me for all my collections. She who was really evolving in this world of haute couture, she would have been the first to jump for joy.

And now, in what state of mind are you?

Now, I especially feel an additional pressure compared to my previous collections…

What does this represent for you and what does it say about the world of fashion and its relationship to diversity and to Africa in particular?

It represents recognition of my work and my style. I am all the more proud of this because the people who sponsored my candidacy (mandatory in order to be able to apply for the highly protected haute couture calendar) are Didier Grumbach, the previous president of the Fédération de la haute couture and current president of honour, and Francesca Bellettini, CEO of Maison Saint Laurent. However, the work of Yves Saint Laurent is an absolute reference for me and I admire the way in which Francesca Bellettini has modernized, while preserving it, this brand.

Furthermore, it shows that Sub-Saharan Africa, which has long been absent from the fashion industry, is beginning to join in. For a very long time, it was difficult to associate Africa and luxury, accepting an African designer in haute couture, which is the ultimate level of luxury fashion, shows that barriers are falling. Especially since, in my work, I have always honored typically African textiles, materials, know-how and cultural inspirations.

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How are you approaching this important step in your long career?

This is a new step for me, which I hope will allow me to continue developing my brand.

What are you concocting for us for January 23? What is the program ?

I don't like to talk about my collections in advance, especially since my inspirations can continue to evolve almost until the last moment, I can just say that the theme is in a way related to the idea of haute couture, but from an African point of view. What is certain is that on January 23, my guests and I will celebrate this special moment and Africa today.

You have been supported by the Lago54 platform for a long time, is it important today to have an organization behind you?

Between Emmanuelle Courrèges and me, it's a long story. She is one of the people who have supported me almost from the beginning. And today, Lago54 is an important showcase for us creators. First, it's a platform that tells a story. Because we tend to represent Africa as a single country, while it is 54 countries, different cultures, different languages, traditions, cultural and artistic heritage, and creativity is also diverse. And that, Emmanuelle has made the strength of Lago54. Since, beyond supporting us with simple advice, his showcase allows him to show his work directly to professionals, buyers, agencies, to be bought also by concept stores through in particular show rooms like the one where we are found in the Marais throughout Paris Fashion Week. She also does this work of popularization with the public on specific notions of culture and African imaginations.

READ ALSOFashion – Imane Ayissi: an ode to African cultures

It's almost politics, is that how you perceive your work as a designer?

It is a necessary vision, because there is still a lot of confusion around so-called African fashion. I believe the time has come when African designers need to be bought. That's why I urge Africans to buy African, let's not expect only foreigners to buy our creations. It is a virtuous circle that must be established. Concretely, the more Africans buy African, the more designers and creators will be able to improve by buying more local raw materials, more quality fabrics, making better finishes or creating more beautiful accessories. Fashion, creation, is an economic value chain.