Etro pays tribute to Franco Battiato<

Parmatthieu Morge Zucconi published, updated

Kean Etro, artistic director of the house, worked with the legendary Italian singer, who died last May, in the 1980s. His new collection, presented this Sunday, is inspired by his work.

Last May, Italy moved from the death of Franco Battiato, one of its flagship musicians, who had been the first pop singer to perform before a pope, in this case John Paul II.It was in 1989. Four years earlier, when Kean Etro was not yet involved in the family label, he met the idol, who invited him to work with him on his tour "Global Lontanissimi", dressed in PaisleyThe scene he performed.

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This season, the creator pays tribute to him.But there is no question of presenting a collection marked with the seal of mourning - this is not the kind of house.In front of a masked audience, the models parade in a ballet of colors on a disused railway, "a place as suspended in time, where nature has resumed its rights", against the backdrop of "the era del cinghiale bianco", the'One of the great pieces of the Sicilian.The silhouette is relaxed, fluid, multiplying the references to the nomadic spirit which made the reputation of Etro: caftans, belts with the details of Turquoise, but also very desirable travel bags."Some clothes are inspired by the Middle East, India ... So many countries that were very expensive in the heart of Franco Battiato," decrypts Kean Etro.As a reference, the Italian also quotes cult writer Bruce Chatwin, famous for his travel accounts ...

Inspired by the brand's archives and in particular the work of Veronica, Kean's sister at the head of the female collections of the house, this locker room for next summer gives pride of place in bright colors (orange, celadon, yellow luminous)And with neutral shades (silver, night blue enhanced, on shorts, gold accents).Burning the boundaries of the genre, some models carry leggings and shirts (very, very) open, while materials usually intended for female collections are used in this wardrobe, which is exclusively male.But for more classic men, there are also superb technical jackets, sleeve-free sweaters and even a logo sweatshirt ... And above all, very successful tailoring in petradante colors, whichImagine easily wearing to party, in a world that returns (slowly but surely) to normal.

"For some time, we have been moving away from very bourgeois codes that have long rhymed with our name," admits Kean Etro.Recently, for example, we dressed Maneskin, the Italian rock group which won Eurovision.It is a risk to take, but we are courageous and will continue on this line in the future. ”It remains to be seen if the public, who is looking for at Etro a very special aesthetic often imitated but never equaled, will follow him in this direction.Response in a few months, when this new collection will enter the store.