Dormcore or the luxurious art of living in pajamas<

Chemise et pantalon coordonnés, pantoufles en moumoutes et plaid en cachemire. Difficile de quitter la chaleur de son lit tous les matins. Mais les créateurs proposent désormais de sortir en pyjama afin de perpétuer le réconfort offert par le vêtement de nuit en journée. Tendance silencieuse depuis quelques saisons, le pyjama s'impose aujourd'hui sur les podiums masculins et féminins, et donne même naissance à un art de vivre: le dormcore.

The exotic and transgressive origins of pajamas

Originally, pajamas, named from the Hindi word "pajama" brought by English colonists in Europe in the 19th century, smells good exoticism, then hot sand.Historically, it is the women who popularize him by carrying him day by the beach in the 1920s, according to a vogue launched by none other than Mademoiselle Gabrielle Chanel.Rare portable pants by women, it becomes synonymous with transgression and chic insolence.

He gradually turns into interior clothes and conquers men from the 1940s who ended up abandoning their old nightmare.Inspiring the fashion world, it becomes the uniform of high society.Princess, fashion icon and creator Irene Galitzine reinvents him in ultra luxury version in the 1960s under the name of Palazzo pajama.

"By becoming an adult, two regressive desires are born in humans.He may want to deviate from Homo Faber, the laborious man, working in costume, and the man who must progress, in competition with himself.Or two daytime postures ”explains the sociologist and founder of the Eranos Studies Institute, Michael Dandrieux (1).And to continue: "The pajamas, clothing of the night of will and rest, makes it possible to deviate from what is expected of you socially but also in relation to what you expect from yourself".Putting yourself in pajamas means that we indulge in the activities of rest, cocooning, and playful, to all that is of the order of non-productivity.Even today, the man who comes out in pajamas is therefore perceived by the collective unconscious as a transgressive figure because he expresses a distance from productivity.

Give up to light the brilliance of our white nights

But if he was perceived in recent decades as the cheesy prerogative of our grandparents or Hugh Hefner, the founder of Playboy never without his red dressing gown, the pajamas rebuilds emulators within the high fashion spheres,even becoming an art of living.It allows to iron Homo Laborans at Homo Ludens, to the luxury of leisure."The best way to question the value of work that is today in crisis is by highlighting the values of rest.Which does not refer to idleness but to renewal.The night and by extension the pajamas allow you to recharge your batteries, to reconnect to our interior dimensions and the dreamlike.By putting on pajamas, we rejuvenate and reconnect to the world of reverie ”, analyzes Michael Dandrieux.

For fall-winter 2013-2014, Marc Jacobs sends women in nightie and pajamas on the podiums of his own brand, his bis line, and Louis Vuitton.And since we are never better served than by oneself, he proves the portability of his trend by greeting at the end of his shows in coordinated pajamas, signed Prada respectively, like boys, and Louis Vuitton X Chapman Brothers.This strong trend in women immediately overflows in humans, which we could see tumbled into pajamas on the podiums of Haider Ackermann, Dries Van Notten, and Ermenegildo Zegna for spring-summer 2014 and 2015.

Revu notamment chez Gucci et Dolce & Gabbana cette année, le pyjama se retrouve aussi du côté des marques pointues comme Drôle de Monsieur qui propose un kimono-robe de chambre.On the shoes side, the fashion of the Slip-on and the Slippers, these shoes to put on as easily as slippers, is from this Dormcore trend.Maison Margiela, led by John Galliano, goes further by inventing female sneakers as cozy as socks.

This persistent trend gives birth to brands specially dedicated to luxury pajamas.Impressed by the nonchalant elegance of the artist still in pajamas Julian Schnabel, the businessman Andy Spade founded in 2013 Sleepy Jones.The brand notably releases pajamas drawn by artists like the John Derian model this year.This season, the Ukrainian brand of high -end Sleeper night clothes is now available at the male.With their sky blue model called "Frank Underwood" in reference to the hero of the Netflix series, the sharp claw proves that it has perfectly grasped the return of hype of pajamas.

Bed linen even asserts as an anti-wrinkle care on the side of Sleep'n'Beauty.The American brand, distributed in France by Climsom, offers pillowcases in anti-factories, antibacterial silk, respectful of the hydrolipidic film of the skin.Proteins and acids animated naturally present in silk would optimize the important work of night cell renewal.As a bonus, the softness of silk would be less favorable to hair loss than cotton.The Dumas house makes tailor-made pillows from its ephemeral workshop based in Paris (11 bis rue Elzévir, 75003 Paris).The cult of performance and contemporary image therefore even reaches sleep which turns into a stylistic test.

More confined to the whim of stars back on the red carpet in pajamas, the night clothing becomes a possible diurnal outfit which connects us to the dream but also to the others: "Even in the private space that is night, the social continuesto express themselves, by its ritualization, by the choice of the patterns of its bedding and its pajamas ”continues Michael Dandrieux.From an unbearable biological constraint for some, the need to sleep therefore becomes an inspiration for fashion that needs to recharge your batteries.

(1) Michael Dandrieux, sociologist and founder of the Institut d'Etudes Eranos, is the author of for a sociology of the invisible (the dream, the magic, and the metaphor), CNRS Éditions, to be published in 2016.