Dior tickles the senses in his parade<

(Paris) After the COVID-19 parenthesis where the clothes were presented virtually, Dior tickles the senses with a parade in a pavilion entirely embroidered by Indian craftsmen, on the first day of haute couture in Paris.

Dior is one of the rare houses that goes to physical parades this season, which "allows you to apprehend the collection more complete compared to the film", explains the creator of women's collections, the Italian MariaGrazia Chiuri who had entrusted the presentation of the two previous haute couture collections to the Matteo Garrone director (Dogman, Gomorra).

Italian actresses Monica Bellucci and American Jessica Chastain, French director Nicole Garcia or the British model Cara Delevingne moved to the Rodin museum to contemplate the clothes alongside masked guests.

The "materiality" or the presence of the object guided this collection rich in total looks in tweeds - hat boots - and in aerial evening dresses in which the braids and the fabric chains hold the pleated in an almost invisible way.

It took twelve days of work to make invisible points on the folds which give "an incredible lightness" to a dress, specifies Maria Grazia Chiuri.

"Detail madness"

The show took place in a pavilion whose walls were completely embroidered according to the sketches of French artist Eva Jospin, a nod to the Indian embroidery room at the Colonna Palace in Rome.

"The embroidered paintings represent a very well -known form of craftsmanship […], but for which Maria Grazia has a sensitivity.She offered to work on this silk room at the size of the parade, "said Eva Jospin to AFP.

Les broderies, d’une superficie de 350 m², ont été faites par les ateliers Chanakya à Bombay avec lesquels la styliste de Dior a créé une école pour former des femmes à cet artisanat qui est en Inde un métier d’homme.

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"In a face -to -face parade, there is a very tactile, very physical report at work," said Eva Jospin.

More than 400 colors, 150 types of points, the shine: "When we see detail madness, we realize that there are works that cannot be virtual, they must live", she adds.

End of feminism?Never

A proven feminist, Maria Grazia Chiuri develops this theme with subtlety.No militant slogans or installation in the form of a vagina like that imagined by the American artist Judy Chicago in January 2020 for a collection of Dior facing the Rodin Museum.

"It will never be the end of feminism," smiles Maria Grazia Chiuri for whom "claiming artistic value to embroidery, which is considered a domestic work, is a feminist message".

Like the installation of Judy Chicago for which the embroidery was carried out by the same school in Bombay, that of Eva Jospin will be accessible to the general public until July 11.

The palette of the dialogue collection with embroidery, in the refined shades of blue, pink, green or flesh.

"The colors are natural and out of time", which translates the idea dear to the designer that the haute couture pieces can be transmitted from mother to daughter.

It also plays with the proportions for a "more contemporary and timeless" silhouette.More comfortable too because the finesse of the size is visually created thanks to the volume games and not the adjusted cut.

The tweed hat matching with the outfit is inspired by that created in the 1960s, "very masculine", breaking with the large flower hats whose house Dior has so far hairstyle its customers.

"Maria Grazia wanted sports hats, not too dramatic or female, to add a little pep to the looks," Dior's hat, the British Stephen Jones, told AFP.