Chanel, Gucci, Prada… when luxury houses appoint diversity managers<

Often criticized for their lack of diversity, more and more luxury houses are hiring diversity and inclusion managers. A unique profession that will allow certain brands to draw a line under embarrassing missteps.

January 28, 2019. In ten days, journalists, influencers, celebrities and other personalities from the fashion world will gather in New York to see the fall-winter 2019 ready-to-wear collections of American designers. Before the start of the festivities, the CFDA, the council of American designers, would like to make a final reminder to brands: “When you do your castings, don't forget to promote diversity and inclusion on the catwalks. American fashion can lead the way,” he wrote on Twitter. A highly symbolic message that pushes the industry to question its practices.

From controversy to awareness

Because if the luxury houses fascinate, they have nevertheless suffered some bad buzz. Many of them have already faced strong criticism from Internet users, activists and consumers. In question: pieces, campaigns or parades, accused of racism, cultural appropriation or lack of diversity, as well concerning the physique, the age, the sexual orientation or the ethnicity of the models. After (too) many controversies and remonstrances from various organizations, the claws are now forced to question their practices and take concrete measures. Result: the industry begins to mobilize and unveil the first changes. At the beginning of 2019, Gucci was the first to tackle the mission of inclusivity by announcing the recruitment of a global director for diversity and inclusion. The brand has also launched a scholarship program in New York, Beijing or Nairobi to enable individuals with eclectic backgrounds to find a place within the Italian house. Enough to inspire other houses, which were quick to follow his example.

A first step towards diversity

After Gucci, it's the turn of a second Italian brand to decide on the subject. Led by Miuccia Prada, the house of Prada has announced the launch of its Diversity and Inclusion Council, led by director Ava DuVernay and artist Theaster Gates. Its goal: "To elevate the voices of people of color within the company and the fashion industry in general", explains the house in a press release. A few weeks later, it was the turn of the British house Burberry to announce the creation of its own dedicated team. In July 2019, Chanel announced the recruitment of Fiona Pargeter as Global Head of Diversity and Inclusion. “Improving inclusion and diversity is a permanent opportunity for Chanel (…). We will continue to focus on new programs to demonstrate our understanding of all aspects of diversity, including diversity of thought, and to further promote a more inclusive and diverse culture,” the label said in a statement. If it is still only the actions of a wrist of luxury houses, the latter seem more than ever determined to evolve fashion.