Of course, I could start this article with "size does not count", but in terms of watches, this assertion deserves a little more attention.Because size remains one of the elements that often condition the choice of a watch.In fact, the dimensions of a watch (diameter and thickness) are dictated by several factors: functionality, construction, genre and ultimately fashion.
The first criterion is the most obvious.The function creates the size, the case must accommodate a movement which therefore partly determines the diameter of the part.But other technical or ergonomic requirements can impose certain choices.This is for example a need for readability, as on the panerai of the 1940s.We can also cite other technical imperatives linked to the need to protect the watch.There is the integration of mild iron protection to combat magnetism (IWC), or the search for greater sealing.Finally, a sports watch will often have more imposing dimensions than a dressed room.
The components used play an important role: there is the case, the crown, the glass, the bottom, the dial, the rejoit or the horns.So you should not only consider the diameter before choosing a watch.A large box with a small dial and a large rehabet can "shrink" the perceived size (look for example the reissue of the Doxa Sub 300, which measures 42.5 mm but is equipped with a small dial).
A more contained box, with a very open dial and a fine rehabetting will have the opposite effect.The horns play a significant role: some are shorter and shrink the length of the watch, others longer and slender.This will influence the way the watch "will fall" on the wrist.
The genre retains relative importance: there are watches for women and others for men.For a long time, a small watch was associated with a female wrist, a large one seemed more masculine.However, the era and fashion have greatly upset this a priori.First there were the 44 mm panerai worn by women.Then, the return in grace of vintage watches, the average size of which is much lower than the current criteria (between 33 and 38 mm maximum).It is therefore no longer surprising to see a man carry a 35 mm gold longines and exchange it with his friend!The differentiating factor is no longer the genre, but more simply the size of the wrist.
Some brands were also trapped by this relativization of the genre: a few years ago, Omega "marketed" a 39 mm planet ocean as a female room, thus losing a male clientele which nevertheless returned slowly toWatches with a smaller diameter.
The final element remains fashionable.And it’s the most complicated to anticipate. Panerai (fin des années 1990) et IWC (début des années 2000) ont joué un rôle important dans le retour des montres à fort « embonpoint » ! Et le pari a payé ! Pourtant, les premières Panerai Pré-Vendôme choquaient parce qu’elles concentraient tout ce qui rendait une montre imposante : un boîtier de 44 mm, un cadran large et simple, une couronne surdimensionnée et une épaisseur digne d’un Animal Burger d’In & Out.
They quickly found their customers, causing a tsunami throughout the industry.Now we had to make bigger, large or thick!The famous 44mm has become a standard, it went to 47 mm.Practically all the brands then gave steroids to their collection and attempted with more or less success the diameters of 46, 48, or even 50 mm!
The trend lasted more than a decade.Until the return of the vintage and the more contained diameters.Now everyone "Downsize".Even the submersible of Panerai now exists in 42 mm.
What will be the next evolution?No one knows, but it is certain that size will remain a predominant factor.
We have already mentioned the brand of Schaffhouse several times here.Its history and success are greatly linked to pilot watches, one of the characteristics of which is the size.If the first IWC to go to the sky dates from 1896 (a pocket watch), the brand's first pilot watch dates back to 1936.But the origin of the Big Pilot dates back to 1940 and to the famous IWC B-UHR (for Beobachtungs-Uhr Type A).
The UHR were observation watches for the crews of the German bombers.There were two types: version A, with a simple dial (hours and minutes) and the B, with a central circle which indicated the hours and minutes displayed on the outside of the dial.The B-UR Type A was produced from the beginnings of the Second World War, while the B model did not appear until 1941.The reference of all these Luftwaffe observation watches was the same: FL23883. Cinq marques produisirent les B-Uhr : Lange & Söhne, LACO (Lacher & Company), Wempe, Stowa (Walter Storz) et IWC.
IWC therefore produced one of these famous UHRs, and its most famous model is type A.It was the ref.431 / Type 52 TSC.This piloting instrument was massive (55 mm) and equipped with an imposing crown that allowed the use of gloves, and a riveted leather bracelet.
In 2002, IWC decided to relaunch its UHR, changing its name on this occasion: the reference 5002 - Big Pilot was (re) born.From the outset, IWC qualified its "big" watch, making it a trademark and a sign of recognition.Of course, the reception was first very fresh, a 46 mm watch being still very unusual at that time.
But the ref.5002 still succeeds in its bet and for 16 years the Big Pilot has become a classic and a bestseller of the brand.She paved the way for many other IWC "pilots", including the many changes in the "Small" Mark 11, or the famous chronograph 3706, which is entitled - this year - to a magnificent reissue.
Big pilot the little prince, ref.501002 © IWC Schaffhausen
Since 2005, IWC has contributed largely to the actions of the Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Foundation for Youth.In the past twelve years (the first IWC Saint-Exupéry was launched in 2006), IWC proposed many watches bearing the name of the famous writer-writer, that of his best known work, the Little Prince (since2013).
The Big Pilot Ref.501002 is therefore the “small prince” version the normal big pilot.The two watches have their size of 46.2 mm and thickness in common (15.6 mm).With its open and relatively simple dial and its very present screwed "onion" crown, the big pilot is undeniably a large watch.She wins, takes up space and attracts looks.
They are both equipped with the 52110 automatic caliber which offers an impressive 7 -day walking reserve.As for most of its pilot sisters, movement is protected by an internal soft iron case, improving protection against magnetic fields.
The small prince version differs from the classic model by its blue dial.This choice is interesting since it softens the general aspect of the watch.The black dial is very martial, its blue version pacifies its look.In addition, its finish is more brilliant than the black dial, thus offering different shades of blue depending on the light.In general, this simple change of dial gives our pilot a slightly more dressed look.Moreover, on the occasion of its 150th anniversary, IWC launched this year several limited editions, including some Big Pilot.
If you want to go off the beaten track and appreciate different dials, I therefore highly recommend the two "large date" models, with white or blue lacquered dials.They are both exceptional but also very rare.Only 100 pieces will be available in each livery.
Big Pilot Grande Date © IWC Schaffhausen
The IWC Big Pilot The Little Prince is offered on a brown rivets bracelet while the "black" version is mounted on a colored bracelet identical to its dial.These bracelets are made by the famous Italian shoe farm Santoni.Particularity specific to IWC, the deploying loop closes in the opposite direction of that to which we are used to a watch.I have always wondered why, but to date I had no convincing explanations on the reason for this choice.
In summary, the Big Pilot Le Petit Price is an interesting choice if you want to both carry a little history of aviation to your wrist, and if you feel the soul of an adventurous writer with a big heart!
Of course, I will not mention the size.Finally, a little all the same.
What disturbs the most in this big pilot is the imposing crown.It is of course perfectly in agreement with the rest of the room, but can sometimes be embarrassing to the port, when it "sinks" in the top of the wrist.
The other aspect that IWC could change is the presence of the walking reserve on the dial.This function is mainly used on a manual winding watch.But the Big Pilot uses automatic movement.The interest is less.By keeping the 7 days, but by removing the indicator, IWC could still simplify the Big Pilot dial, which would probably transform the room and reduce it.
The big pilot the little prince is not a watch that we wear every day.But it will remain a centerpiece in a collection, both by its character and by its measurements!
Big pilot the little prince, ref.501002 © IWC Schaffhausen
The IWC Big Pilot is noticed.Point.So you have to give it space and allow it on its wrist.First, as always, think of the bracelet.
The original model is superb, but the blue color of the dial would have deserved a little more originality.You can opt for a miltat bracelet in Strapcode denim, or lighter leather.The presence of rivets is an ode to the past, but without them the big pilot is refined.You can therefore also have a simpler, more colorful bracelet (yellow, orange) made but which will have to keep the original design, which fits perfectly with the box.I tried several other 22 mm bracelets, and their cutout is not ideal.
Given its weight and size, I have always seen the big pilot as a watch more pleasant to wear in autumn or winter.At the first frost, take out your Zegna jogger "pants in Taupe gray cashmere and put on a blue polo shirt.Ainsi confortablement habillé, surfez online pour trouver un blouson vintage de pilote A-2 d’Aero Leather Clothing & Co ou Werber Sportswear (ces deux marques produisirent de nombreux A-2 au cours de la Seconde Guerre Mondiale).
With patience and luck, you will find one of these myths, worn but always dashing.And on the back, there may be this drawing so characteristic of a pin-up, girlfriend of a pilot of the time.
Once the order is placed, we will have to wait.Then take the opportunity to reread the little prince.Please draw me a nice watch ...
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