A new wind at Gucci<

In the wonderful and merciless world of the world, we do not laugh with the de-mod.After 10 years of direction of the brand's creation, Frida Giannini has just been thanked.With her, her companion, Patrizio Di Marco, who has been officiating for six years as CEO.The tandem has however managed to hoist the claw at the top of world preferences, from Asia (especially Asia) to America, bringing Europe, more refined, in turnover.But it seems that, inevitably, after ten years, a creator is running out of steam ... at least in large groups like Kering (François-Henri Pinault) or LVMH (Bernard Arnault).

Frida, it was the one that brilliantly ensured the transition between Tom Ford (1994-2004) and the Neo-Bourgeois porn of the 2000s.With a very refined sense of feminine elegance, she had brought the brand back to the top 5 of the most appreciated labels.Thanks to original collections, sharp and at the same time very portable, also thanks to leather goods, it maintained the claw at the tip of sales despite the crisis, notably creating two best-sellers handbags, the bamboo and the jackie.

Recession obliges, Gucci sales fell 1.3 % during the first 9 months of 2014.One can also wonder if the explosion of the price of the Gucci bags (going from 700 to 1,200 euros on average) did not give way to competition from new more affordable coming.Michael Kors, for example (between 300 and 750) or Lancel, Darel, Vanessa Bruno, Marc by Marc Jacobs or Julien Dreyfus.In this case, the other claws of the luxury market must also wonder.From Chanel to Dior via Armani, Burberry, Céline, Prada, Miu Miu, Vuitton… All practice the same astronomical rates (from 1200 to 3800 without talking about croco bags).

It will be at the new CEO Marco Bizzarri (which operated within the Luxe-Couture-Maroquinerie of the group, for example Bottega Veneta) to think among other things about these marketing questions.

Who to replace Frida?

To replace Frida Gianinni, we evoke stylists who walk hard like Riccardo Tisci (Givenchy) or Maria Grazia Chiuri (Valentino), the new like Joseph Altuzarra or Christopher Kane, or a ex from Yves Saint Laurent who did not deserve, StefanoPilati, currently at Zegna, or simply one of Frida's straight arms, Alessandro Michele, who is for the moment best placed in the forecasts.

It would seem that it is also media coverage-the "people -ization"!-Of his future stylist who interests the big boss François-Henri Pinault.But is not Jean-Paul Gaultier who wants.With her discreet distinction, Frida was away from worldly fiestas, choosing Princess Charlotte Casiraghi as muse.Very calculated appearances that did not create enough buzz?

Less time to prove itself

Kering seems to want to make a quick change rather than leaving a chance to bounce back to his tandem.LVMH had been more patient: with Galliano at Dior (1996-2011) or with Tom Ford at Vuitton (1997-2013), leaving his designers to the controls about fifteen years each.Sign of times?The very classic Hermès house, who had kept Margiela 6 years old and Jean-Paul Gaultier 7 years old, has also accelerated her change: after 4 years, Christophe Lemaire was replaced by a stranger (ex-Margiela and Céline, all the same), Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, who has just taken up his female ready-to-wear.

In this environment eager for idols, it is Karl Lagerfeld who broke all records: at Chanel, he has directed all the style since 1983, at over 80 years old!And sales continue to go up ...