“Le Jeu de la dame”: the hidden meaning of Beth’s looks<

Do you feel like a void after finishing Emily in Paris? Do not panic, Le Jeu de la dame, a well-crafted Netflix series from director Scott Frank, is the antidote you need to get through the fall.

In this seven-part miniseries, Anya Taylor-Joy plays Beth Harmon, a young American chess prodigy – a character from the 1983 novel of the same name by Walter Tevis. Set against a backdrop of the 1960s Cold War, the series explores themes of identity, obsession, addiction, and feminism. Anya Taylor-Joy's formidable performance is supported by tailor-made costumes, skilfully designed by designer Gabriele Binder, who have hidden many messages in them. "My role is always to link the plot to the clothes, obviously relying on the script," the costume designer told Vogue in a phone conversation from the German capital. “I immediately fell in love with the script which was extremely inspiring. »

For the designer, who also designed the costumes for Angelina Jolie's In the Land of Blood and Honey (2011) and the Oscar-nominated film The Work Without an Author (2018), the world of chess already provided in itself even an interesting starting point for “discovering the traits and characteristics that are unique to chess players and that make them fascinating people. Based on her research, Gabriele Binder has stirred up the past and created pieces showing the phenomenal influence of fashion designers of this decade, like André Courrèges, and talented and offbeat women like Jean Seberg and Edie Sedgwick. So many pieces that Anya Taylor-Joy wears wonderfully. “She is magical,” says Gabriele Binder. “If she really likes [a room] and thinks it's the right one for a specific moment, she values ​​every little thing. She immediately connects to the clothes she wears. »

From Beat generation-inspired t-shirts to the many chic dresses Beth Harmon wears to take on her male rivals, Gabriele Binder deciphers the hidden messages behind Anya Taylor-Joy's best looks in The Queen's Game.

Beth Harmon's first encounter with fashion

"We wanted Beth Harmon's late '50s, early '60s look to be a bit old-fashioned on purpose – so that we could clearly show the moment when she caught up with modernity in New York, when she discovered how young people in his generation. When Beth is in school, she feels that the other girls are different from her, and she feels out of place in this group. That's when she searches everywhere for something [and someone] to connect to, and in the absence of a flesh-and-blood person, she connects to a dress on a mannequin. »

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