Death of fashion designer Alber Elbaz<

A bare shoulder, a silky corolla with a thousand wavy folds: at the same time sophisticated and simple, the long dress of the most ardent red testifies to the Elbaz style. Created in 2011 for the house Lanvin, of which he was artistic director for nearly 15 years, this model displays the claw of the stylist, graceful, brilliant, of incredible femininity.

Born in Casablanca on 12 June 1961, Alber Elbaz grew up in the suburbs of Tel Aviv. He knew little about his father, who died when he was still young. The family did not ride on gold: to feed their five children, her mother was employed in a restaurant. But, practicing painting, she transmits her love for beauty to her son who, as a child, imagines and designs dream dresses and, perhaps already, the sublime women who will wear them …

Laroche, Saint-Laurent, Lanvin

His career began with the American Geoffrey Beene in New York, before Guy Laroche hired him. As a prelude to a complex and decisive stage: he took over the direction of Yves Saint Laurent's women's ready-to-wear collection in 1998. But in 2000, he left the company for disagreement and, between the need to recharge himself and the real spleen, he offered himself a sabbatical year. His return was all the more striking in 2001 when he signed with Lanvin, whom Taiwanese businesswoman Shaw-Lan Wang had just bought from L 'Oréal, for what proved to be a long and fruitful companion.

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— Michelle Healy Fri Apr 10 13:20:44 +0000 2020

The venerable institution founded in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin needs to regain breath and inventiveness. Alber Elbaz is the contractor, offering women an ideal balance between perfection and fantasy, fluidity and nobility of cuts and textures. For example, in 2013, these fluid blouses sown with patterns reembroidered like precious jewels: butterflies, leaves and flowers. But also these dresses, short or long, whose very graphic architecture is enriched by surprising bubbles or flywheels.

His palette is sometimes voluptuous, daring ardent roses and spring Greens, sometimes more sober, playing with the thousand and one variations of grey and dark blue magnified by the light of the podiums. This gourmet of good cuisine, which his round silhouette betrayed, is celebrated by specialized critics and wealthy customers.

A hard blow and a fresh start

However, the long and beautiful stories come to an end and Alber Elbaz, in disagreement with his leadership, is ousted in 2015. A very hard blow for the creator who, as he confided later, faced emptiness and depression. A few collaborations, particularly in the accessories sector, vaguely occupy his time and talent. It was at the end of 2019, however, that he joined forces with the Swiss group Richemont to launch his own AZ Factory claw, which he wanted "functional and suitable for everyone". A new start, far from haute couture, anchored in the march of time, new technologies: here is "a luxury brand 100% digital, based on innovation and technology, but above all, a place to experiment and try new ideas," said Alber Elbaz at the launch of his brand.

→ archive. Jeanne Lanvin in Majesty

He presents it as the crucible of a "democratic" fashion adapted to all women of all silhouettes and generations. As for prices, while some fly high (dresses around a thousand euros), others flirt with reasonableness. However, the creator always shows his immense talent. As with this double-buttoned blazer with a clean design or, better yet, this breathtaking "Duchess" skirt. Who knows if his sketch wasn't already on little Alber's notebooks?