Excluded: Anthony Vaccarello tells us about his winter collection for Yves Saint Laurent<

What is a Saint Laurent suit? Yesterday? And today? It's a well-cut suit where the shoulder is in place and a sense of proportion prevails over a "seasonal" jacket that everyone can make in the end. A Saint Laurent jacket because of its look and fit will always be recognizable.

Isn't a suit for a designer the obligatory step for any self-respecting designer, clothing that oscillates between good quality couture and luxury ready-to-wear? Of course, the suit belongs to everybody. Even if I am sometimes ulcerated to see some very badly cut. Today, we work more in an idea of ​​collage, the approximate look rather than in quality. It's a shame, but that's how it is... This is why the Saint Laurent tailor stands out from the rest. Even if Yves Saint Laurent invented it, I think it's great that it's found everywhere.

Why did you stage this collection in the very mineral and raw decor of Iceland? To contrast with these artificial, sometimes acid colours. The hostile and dark decor imposed itself on me.

You have a passion for 15 denier tights, which are almost always found in your collections. Why? A way to veil a leg without hiding it. There is a side almost more erotic than a bare leg. The woman seems less accessible...

Tell us about the jewellery. I wanted almost all of them to have this vintage and authentic side of this period costume jewellery. It is, almost on all the looks, replicas of old jewels of Yves Saint Laurent. Between false luxury and real style of today. I found it funny to over accessorize these looks which were ultimately very minimal in their proportions.

Also read on Vogue.fr:Saint Laurent: what to remember from the Spring-Summer 2022 showSix Parisian museums pay tribute to Yves Saint Laurent The secrets of Catherine Deneuve's little black dress in “Belle de Jour”

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