Chanel, 1 minute 22 haute couture under the sign of tweed and palace years<

By Hélène Guillaume published, updated

Tuesday, at noon, Virginie Viard revealed, online, the thirty models of her high couture winter 2020-2021.Pure Chanel, crossed by eccentric references, reminiscences of the evenings of the 1980s when Karl Lagerfeld magnetized.

Remember, just a month ago, Chanel was the first house to present a post-Cavid collection (its 2020 cruise). It's crazy as since, life has resumed. But four weeks earlier, this presentation was a prowess, moreover applauded by the profession which was looking for a champion to ring the start of the school year. For four weeks, the workshops led by artistic director Virginie Viard have therefore chained with the preparation of haute couture, revealed on your screens, this afternoon. If the constraints remain (tissue supply problems, deadlines largely shortened for workshops), they have never hampered creation. On the contrary. These thirty models - half a traditional collection - captured by the star photographer Mikael Jansson (his shots replacing the canceled parade) give this sewing, an almost eccentric attitude to which Virginie Viard had not used us. The Frenchwoman who, since her appointment in February 2019, has lightened the sometimes Too Much effects of her mentor, Karl Lagerfeld, wanted to shake up her iconography here. The genesis of it is somewhere in the 1980s, in the Polaroids of Karl and its band of eccentric Aristos marking their looks of the Palace and the Dish Baths.

«Ces derniers mois, je n’arrêtais pas de penser à Karl, à ces photos quand il sortait en soirée avec Diane de Beauvau, racontait-elle hier dans son studio de la rue Cambon. Je me rappelais les premières fois où je suis allée dîner chez lui, à l’époque il vivait encore dans son appartement au décor XVIII^e siècle, on s’asseyait sur son lit... C’est cette culture qui inspire la collection, aux silhouettes variées, particulièrement brodées. Au fil des photos de Mikael, les deux mannequins incarnent cet esprit plus sexy, plus seventies et en même temps très couture, avec leurs coiffures extravagantes et leurs parures de joaillerie qu’habituellement, je n’aime pas voir portées sur le podium des défilés.»

If you didn't know how to plumb in a new bathroom, you'd hire a plumber. #Divorce is no different. https://t.co/fixqhpZ61V

— Andrew Woolley Tue Jan 30 13:20:11 +0000 2018

A wealth of palpable fabrics even through the screen

When its very successful cruise collection was easy and light, this haute couture wants to be spectacular, running tweed dresses with plastron jewelry by Goossens, iridescent latex lace, large midnight blue velvet dresses or small puffy modelsParty girl with bustier embroidered with pleated with organza by the Paloma workshop, a little punk pants combinations ... "Some of these silhouettes are inspired by sketches or sketches that I kept from Karl but alsoCoco archives that we look at all the time!I do not know how to draw, my approach is therefore different from that of Karl, and is more part of a story, when he was very directive.When he decided a parade, he gave himself a theme, a silhouette that he could resume 150 times but with his idea in mind.So sometimes I put these ideas alive that I imagined otherwise. "

The richness of the fabrics is palpable even through the screen (for the occasion, the fashion house made a small film of the two models dancing on the falsely ingenuous pop song of the London duo Jockstrap)."Most fabrics were already in our reserves," says Virginie Viard.With Karl, it was one of my roles to select a wide choice of fabrics and sometimes he reached some that I really liked.These are these little stories that I take over today. "

Particularly worked, the tweeds integrate fantasy wires made by VIMAR 1991, the last acquisition of the Chanel group."This is a little news, but which for us is very important," says Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel's fashion activities.We have been working for more than 20 years with VIMAR 1991 which is eating fantasy wires with unique techniques, which are an essential link in the manufacture of our tweeds. ”The small Italian factory which encountered financial difficulties thus joins the thirty factories and crafts in the lap of Chanel, which of Lesage, in Lemarié and Montex are present in this high -flying seam.

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