What color of costume to wear?When and how ?<

Work, evening, appointment, wedding ... black, blue, gray, brown, etc..What are the trends about men's costumes?What are the fashionable colors and what colors are suitable for what occasions?

(To learn all about the Male Spring Summer 2018 costumes, click here)

Navy blue costumes stand out as the big essential fashion trend, but some could be tempted by a black suit.Attention, linked to the night and the rock, it is to be banished absolutely in the work.I tell you everything about the 6 -point man costume with the lighting of 2 fashion experts.

Man costume trend

1/ Can we wear a black suit?

"At the very beginning of the 2000s, under the influence of Hedi Slimane for Dior, the black suit is the essential of the men's dressing room.Everyone must absolutely have a.It tells elegance, sobriety, explains Geraud Lamazere, artistic director of the tailor -made costume creation house Faubourg Saint Sulpice.While today we have to wear it very little.

What was the black suit at the time is what navy blue is today.Black, on the other hand, regains importance in fashion, apart from the costume.We see a lot of total black looks.But contrary to what we think, this color does not go to everyone.In terms of complexion, this is not what is best when you have very clear skin ".

2/ Who can wear a black suit?

"Black costume is a thing of croque-mort or rocky, in the broad sense, slice Thomas Zylberman, stylist within the CARLIN Group style office: you wear a black suit if you go to a funeral or if you'Calls The Beatles, The Hives, Jim Jarmusch or Hedi Slimane.It's a rock aesthetic.

Today at work, wearing a black suit is not done.Even a black tie, it's badly perceived, it's not corporate.This color is linked to a universe that is not that of work.Besides, Hedi Slimane in Dior Homme or in Saint Laurent has never positioned himself in Corporate Man fashion ".

Jim Jarmusch

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3/ When can we wear a black suit?

"In my opinion, very rarely," explains Geraud Lamazere.We must not carry it in a professional context, neither at work, nor for a job interview.We should not wear black either during a wedding.So what do we have left?He must remain exclusively an evening costume ”.

4/ How to wear it?

"We can wear it in the evening in a classic way: jacket + pants, but in my opinion it must be" evening "," continues Geraud.it can be a tuxedo reinterpreted.Because the difficulty of wearing a black suit in the evening is that it is a very basic garment.It means a lack of imagination.I think that it must be a beautiful piece worked with evening codes: covered buttons, a shawl collar that may not be covered with satin, something that will give it an additional personality.

In the same way, the accessories must be well chosen: shoes with an frosting, a watch with a pantyy or crocodile leather bracelet.And ideally that it is tailor-made, or at least with floor fire (pants cut that lets the ankle discover) which will give it a more fashionable side to get out of the "unimaginated basic".

You can also wear it in a "fashion week" spirit, but it is only valid during Fashion Week: a very hype look with a twist like a black cap, a pair of sneakers of a sharp brand.I think you have to go to the end of the process, do not wear it with color but with a white shirt.In order not to look like a coffee boy, you have to take great care to the whole so that there is no doubt.

If you want to put color, it must appear by small touch: a pocket, a butterfly knot a little extravagant for a real dandy touch, provided you want to do it.But I would not wear a colored tie, even fine ”.

5/ The navy blue costume is the basis of the male locker room

Thomas Zylberman notes that "to go to work, the color of a dominant costume is the navy.There was a “gray costume” period, but the young people who will work are in blue.The blue costume is naturally essential.This is the essential color.At the start, it was navy blue, but the palette developed a lot: duck, oil, intense ".

"Everyone must have a navy blue costume, this is the new base of the dressing room, insists Geraud.The costume to have.While gray has disappeared a little.Blue has become what black was: an easy -to -wear costume, which is doing with everything, adapts to any situation: evening, work, events type wedding.And he dresses, unlike anthracite gray which is also a fundamental base, but which does "boring job".

Navy blue is cool and what is interesting is that it is offered with a palette, and quantity of nuances.We can have 3 navy blue costumes which are not the same at all.It’s a fundamental that comes.We see it mismatched, in 3 rooms and 2 rooms ».

Costumes Hugo Boss, Calvin Klein, Hermès, Versace, Benetton, Windsor, Strellson, Hackett.

6/ How to wear a blue suit?

"He joins, combines," is in all situations, "continues Geraud.Variations range from Blue Black, that is to say almost black blue, to more electric bruises, ink blues, blue that contain gray, black, blue oil.Among drapers, we see the development of navy blue which are not united: micro-carriage, caviar patterns, prince of very melted Wales.At 3 or 4 meters, we do not see the pattern ".

Example of fabric details at Faubourg Saint Sulpice

Thomas adds that there is an evolution in the wear of the costume: "The pants of a costume is soft, floating because the drapery is flexible.While the lining, the bogging, the shoulder pads structure the jacket.For this reason many men wear their jacket with cotton pants.The new port is often mismatched.Do not mismatched 2 costumes together, it never happens, but associate a jacket with a chino.Matter difference avoids this soft leg effect.As the fall of the cotton canvas is radically different, it is not the same pace.Suddenly, you do not put the same shoes, nor the same socks.It conditions everything.

Beautiful example of a blue costume jacket carried out by a mismatched way with a ungaro sky blue chino

There is a great freedom to wear the jacket today.You can put it on a t-shirt with screen printing or message, like Edouard Baer, with jeans.You can wear it on a polo shirt, on a fine merino sweater or cashmere of Italian mesh very fine with a chimney collar that turns around.While the bottom of the costume, the pants, can only be worn with its jacket in total look.It is only in magazine mode editorials that we see it associated with a sweater, a jacquard sweater or a twist sweater ".

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