The time when the skirt hung out women<

In partnership with Retonews, the BNF press site

Emancipation or domination tool?The skirt came back in the news with the assault of three young girls in Mulhouse and Strasbourg on the grounds that they wore this clothing.In 2020 again, the holding of the short skirt, plunging neckline, crop top - the object of all eyes, comments, injunctions and unfortunately violence.

À lire aussiLes femmes plus enclines à interdire le crop top et autres «tenues non républicaines»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»» que les hommes

The skirt, however, a long vector of male domination according to historian Christine Bard, became in the 1960s a means of female emancipation.As the fashions and the evolution of society, it encloses or releases the one that wears it.In this long history of female fashion, let us stop on a clothing symbol of this duality, the "hampered skirt" which gave birth at the beginning of the 20th century to the skirt.

Birth of the "low speed" dress»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»

At the beginning of 1910, fashion was played out of women and imposed in the wardrobes a tight skirt on the bottom by a large strip accompanied by an interior martingale named Entrave.It is coupled with a device which under the petticoat restricts walking and prevents the tearing of clothing.

"Low -speed dress", "Turtle Dress", "trampling rode", "Ataxia dress".The imagination of the French is getting carried away to guess the "hampered" dress or skirt.Caricaturists seize it to better ridicule it.

Paternity comes back to the designer Paul Poiret who had nevertheless released the wife of the corset."I released the top of their body, but I hinder their legs," laughs the stylist.The hindered or hampered skirt is taken up by all seamstresses and causes scandal.For several reasons.It is first suggestive, letting the forms guess.The Italian bishops judge her "immodest", and ban the elegant churches that are dressed in.Absolution would even be refused to "hampered", reports the press.In England, they are no longer admitted to the Court.According to the newspapers of the time, "it is forbidden to run before the king and the queen the dangers that would include a bow too pronounced in one of these very adjusted dresses."Queen Mary would deem it incontesting.

Paris, fashion capital, offers the show of a gigantic "bags race"»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»

The hampered dress is accused of all evils.Etrique, it would cause the ruin of the manufacturers of Roubaix fabrics."It only takes four meters [of fabric] for the dress that once required eight or ten!...", The Excelsior is lamented on November 25, 1911 which called on the" graceful menu "to save the textile industry.

From grace, most of them do not find this new trend that ties women and gives them a ridiculous approach.We make fun of these poor souls subjected to fashion dictates to the point of abandoning any dignity.In Le Figaro, the lesson is scathing but the fault is rejected on the era which carries the naked artists completely eccentric.The writer and poet Miguel Zamacoïs gave himself to heart in the June 25, 1910 edition:

"It is necessary to devote a few lines to what is and will undoubtedly remain one of the most curious examples of the degree of aberration where a reasonable society can reach.I mean the fashionable dress, tight at the bottom, thanks to which half of Paris gives the other the unforeseen spectacle of a gigantic bags in bags.These few lines, we must not write them for contemporaries, for those who like you and I are helpless and bewildered by this access to mental alienation, what do I say, vestimental!Our responsibility vis-à-vis posterity, and to let him know that we were neither the dupes nor the accomplices of this attack of delirium of the very thin skirts.[…]

We would be wrong to unwind against the appearance of the skirt-training.After all, it is only one of the natural, almost compulsory links of contemporary taste revolution.An era must have the dress it deserves, and we may only deserve this dress.[…] Because, by thinking about it, how does a skirt that prevents the march it should facilitate in its strange genre than what we are shown every day in the exhibitions? "

A bag race yes, but punctuated by obstacles.The newspapers compete with anecdotes on the falls that punctuate the day of a "hindrance".Vehicle steps are guilty of sprains or fractures, there are no longer the sometimes fatal falls on the stairs, even the gusts are risky.Women must resolve to be hoisted as packages in cars.And the slightest journey takes on endurance race.Doctors even worry about this "inexorable sheath" which "slows the functions of the skin".

The elegant, brave, ignore these concerns: "The hampered dress will still be all-powerful during the winter of 1910-1911, warns the fashion chronicle of the Journal L’Action.So the best is to take your side bravely, and no longer talk about it.It is understood that we will still continue for long months to trot, the knees joined, at the speed of two kilometers an hour...»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»

The new scandal skirt

In the United States, the Americans, much more pragmatic, demand the lowering of the steps.So the president of a female club: "We are not going to abandon our mode because the steps are too high," she says.Let us lower them!Women claim to dress as they want and demand that they abandon the hampered skirt, if they like to wear it, is outrageous.»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»

But the newspaper La Gazette, which on March 20, 1912, reports this affair, would like to point out "to Boston's ladies that the hampered skirt is no longer in Paris"»»»»»»»»»»»».Less than two years after its appearance, the ephemeral skirt hampered is no longer.She gave way to the panties skirt, a new object of scandal.

This new clothing is the logical continuation of the hampered dress.The tightened skirt split up in half and releases the legs of women.This time it comes from England, carried by the riders, proud Amazons concerned with comfort.In Paris, Paul Poiret, again, is maneuvering.It offers oriental models puffy at the ankles.As of February 11, 1911, he confided in the Excelsior:

"We were already joking about it: we said - it was easy, by the way - that the woman was finally going to wear the panties.It’s a bad word from little vaudeville.But when we will see, we will appreciate better than instead of "masculinizing" the woman, the so disputed costume intends to show her in all the harmony of her line and in all the freedom of her native flexibility.»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»

Las, the panty skirt is not only deemed ugly or offensive.She stirs up the hatred of some.Young women who dare to bring it to wood or races are huer and even attack.The novelist Marcelle Tinayre is unworthy in the newspaper Le Matin on March 22, 1911:

"What seemed to me much uglier than the ugliest fantasies of fashion is the attitude of the crowd in front of the unfortunate women who exhibited these new features.In the races, on the boulevard, place de l'Opéra, models, employees of great designers, dressed in culottes by the will of the bosses, were coarsely hooked and even jostled.In London, Madrid, they are insulted.In Vienna, we went from insults to the assault.There are people who find it very funny.I find it revolting.There is nothing ugly than the culotte, otherwise the welcome you give it.[…] In reality the crowd makes fun of aesthetics and morality.She grabs with joy the opportunity offered to satisfy, without risk, a brutal instinct, sometimes even a sadistic instinct.Very courageous men begin by inveating an unfortunate woman who does not answer anything and who panics.They end up molesting it, tug, tear it away, and if they were let it do they would type on it, bravely.»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»

Very quickly the newspapers gave it for stillborn but it will be brought up to date in the 1940s.It is then a functional garment adapted to the bicycle journeys of the French faced with the shortage of petrol.In the 1960s, he returned to mini-skirt and pants to provoke the debate.

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