Rajasthan: Jaipur, the city of Maharajas<

Located 240 km from Delhi, Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan (3.4 million inhabitants), nicknamed "the pink city", transports the traveler to the mythical India of the Maharajas, the trade in spices and stones precious.

In the ancient city, installed in the heart of its impeccably preserved ramparts, we go to discover its superb historical monuments, from the Palace of the Winds to the City Palace, passing by the astonishing astronomical observatory.

But Jaipur is also a modern and hectic city, which you can discover by wearing your sandals in the bazaars installed along the main avenues... A ceaseless ballet of cars, rickshaws and two-wheelers honking at whom better better in a merry din!

The Palace of the Winds, symbol of the pink city

In the old town, the Palace of the Winds (Hawal Mahal), built in 1799, is certainly the most most famous in Jaipur. More than a palace, it is actually a fine sandstone facade of five floors, 15 meters high, pierced with finely carved niches and loggias.

Connected to the apartments of the zenana (harem) of the City Palace, the building allowed women – secluded, as tradition dictated – to observe the street without being seen, while enjoying a refreshing breeze, beneficial in this region where the temperatures are torrid for a good part of the year, thanks to a clever ventilation system which has earned it its name of Palace of the Winds.

In the early morning or at dusk, the Palace of the Winds is revealed in all its splendor, when the softer light highlights the warm color of the red and pink sandstone. A moment of eternity.

The City Palace, palace of the maharajas

It was at the beginning of the 18^th century that Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II decided to found Jaipur in order to transfer his capital there, previously installed at Amber Fort, about ten kilometers away.

Surrounded by ramparts, the new city has benefited from a real urban plan, as evidenced by its squared streets. Built between 1729 and 1732, the City Palace thus became the center of power.

Today, half of this complex of palaces and pavilions has been opened to the public and converted into museum spaces, with the rest still occupied by the family of the young Maharaja, who was crowned in 2011 at the age of 12 (although his role is purely ceremonial). If ever the flag flies above the imposing Chandra Mahal (Moon Palace), which rises seven stories tall, know that the Maharaja is there!

The wonders of the City Palace

Be sure to visit the Costume Museum, housed in the elegant Mubarak Mahal (Welcome Palace), a marble pavilion white that Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh II had built at the end of the 19^th century for his receptions.

Among the luxurious finery embroidered in gold, silver and set with precious stones, is on display the impressive costume of Sawai Madho Singh I, a giant who measured nearly 2 meters and weighed… 250 kg!

In the same courtyard is the entrance to the Maharani Palace, where one of the finest collections of weapons in Rajasthan is displayed.

At the center of another courtyard, stands the hall of public hearings (Diwan-i-Khas), where we discover two huge jars listed in the Guinness World Records for largest pieces of silverware in the world. Each weighing 345 kg and able to hold 4,091 litres, they were used in 1902 to transport water from the Ganges during the Maharaja's trip to England for the coronation of Edward VII.

Other marvels not to be missed are the magnificent gates of the pretty Pitam Niwas Chowk courtyard, decorated with frescoes depicting the four seasons.

Jantar Mantar: a unique astronomical observatory

Just next to the City Palace is one of the most amazing places in Rajasthan: the Jantar Mantar, a open-air astronomical observatory bringing together nearly 20 monumental instruments on a large esplanade. It is to Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, passionate about science, that we owe the construction at the beginning of the 18^th century of this extraordinary ensemble, inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. UNESCO in 2010.

At the time, the observatory was used to predict eclipses and the monsoon, to make horoscopes or to write almanacs. Among the most remarkable instruments, the Brihat Samrat Yantra is known to be the largest sundial in the world, its 27 meters high giving it exceptional precision.

The Yantra Raj is made up of two metal instruments suspended from a portico: an astronomical circle and an astrolabe, which is also the largest in the world.

At the gates of the old city

Going down the Chaura Rasta Road, one of the main arteries, we leave the old city by the New Gate, the 'one of the seven gates in the ramparts.

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Across the street, here is the pleasant Garden of Ram Niwas, where stands the Albert Hall Museum, a building as imposing as elegant dating from the colonial era and housing a large collection of weapons (bows, sabers, daggers, etc.), armor, Indian pottery, jewelry, musical instruments, stone sculptures, wooden works, textiles, and even precious carpets.

Not far from there, about twenty minutes on foot, why not go see a Bollywood film, in the evening, at the Raj Mandir, a huge Art Deco style cinema that can accommodate 1 200 spectators? You can even book your session through an app (on Android only). Guaranteed atmosphere in the room!

The revival of the Jal Mahal

It is undoubtedly one of the most photographed monuments in the Jaipur region. 5 km from the City Palace, on the road to Amber – the ancient capital –, the Jal Mahal (literally "palace on the water") seems to float on the waters of the artificial lake of Man Sagar.

Built in 1799 for Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh, this former summer palace served as a setting for duck hunting parties. Abandoned for 200 years, it slowly fell into disrepair, before being restored from 2005.

On this occasion, the lake was also cleaned up, with tons of silt containing toxic waste being evacuated. Thanks to this "environmental grooming" (and even if we still unfortunately deplore the presence of a lot of rubbish around the lake, and probably also in its waters), the migratory birds that had deserted the surrounding swamps are back.

Currently, the palace cannot be visited, and it is from the bank that we are content to admire it. When is the installation of a luxury restaurant or a palace, as in Udaipur?

Practical sheet

Find all the practical information, tips and addresses in the Routard Inde du Nord bookstore.

To prepare for your stay, consult our India and Rajasthan online guides

Rajasthan tourism website

Indian tourism website

How to get there?

Daily flights to Delhi from Paris CDG, then connection in Delhi with Air India or Jet Airways. Find your plane ticket

Jaipur is connected to Delhi and the main cities of Rajasthan by train (5h journey) and by bus (5h30 journey).

How to get around?

In Jaipur, you can get around by taxi or rickshaw. The traffic is particularly dense there, and the construction work of the metro does not help matters.

If you are staying in the old town, it is not difficult to walk, especially since the streets at right angles make it easy to find your way around. The only problem is to cross the main avenues: you then have to compete in cleverness (and audacity) to reach the opposite sidewalk, zigzagging between the vehicles that brush past you and move with a logic that escapes us, in a veritable cacophony of horns.

For a getaway outside of Jaipur, the ideal is to rent a car with driver, the "driverless" option is unconscious, given the local style of driving, more "sporty" ...

Where to sleep?

Shahpura House: D-257, Devi marg, Bani Park. In this charming Rajput-style hotel, you could feel like a prince in your haveli. Located about 4 km from the city center, it offers a real oasis of calm, away from the hustle and bustle of the pink city. After a day of sightseeing, relax here with a swim in the swimming pool, before having dinner on site, in the pleasant garden or at the restaurant located on the roof terrace. Excluding promotions, count 6,000 rupees (approx. €81) for one night in a double room (+ taxes, breakfast not included).

Pearl Palace Heritage: 54, Gopal Bari, lane Number 2, Ajmer Road. Superbly decorated and comfortable, this hotel in the Ashok Nagar district offers excellent value for money. Doubles from 2800 rupees (about 35 €)

Book your hotel in Jaipur

Where to eat?

Niro’s: M.I. Rd. One of Jaipur’s institutions since 1949. Traditional Indian cuisine, but also Chinese and Western. Count 1000 rupees (11 €).

Four Seasons: Subhash Marg, C-Scheme. One of the best vegetarian restaurants in Jaipur. Refined and hearty cuisine. Count 800 rupees (9 €)

Shopping

In the old town, the (many) shops are lined up along the main streets, such as those of Johari Bazar, Bapu Bazar, or Tripolia Bazar. There you can find silver jewelry, Rajasthani crafts, textiles of all kinds, semi-precious stones (more or less authentic and of high quality), clothes... In short, enough to stock up on local souvenirs. Bargaining is, of course, in order.

Visit prices

Entries to the various museums and monuments cost between 200 and 500 rupees (€2.70 to €7).

There is a group ticket, the Composite Entry Ticket, to visit a selection of monuments in the Jaipur region (Jantar Mantar, Palace of Winds, Albert Hall Museum, Amber Fort, Nahargarth Fort, Vidyadhar Ka Bagh Gardens and Sisodia Rani Ka Bagh). Pass valid for 2 days. Full price: 1,000 rupees (approx. €13). Student rate: 200 rupees (€2.70).

Text: Olivia Le Sidaner

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