Africa, increasingly addicted to skin whitening products<

"Our society is conditioned by the fact that having light skin is a way to find a good job, to have a romantic relationship... and for many, it is very important," explains Isima Sobande, a young doctor from 27 years old facing health problems related to money laundering practices among the working classes of Lagos, Nigeria. “It eats us up inside. »

A growing phenomenon despite known risks

Skin bleaching is not an exclusively African phenomenon, it is also practiced in certain countries of South Asia and the Middle East. But in Africa, the lack of market control and price pressures pose particular problems in terms of security. For their part, the champions of black consciousness see it as a harmful legacy of slavery and colonization.

But paradoxically, they undoubtedly have more echoes and influence in the rest of the world than on the African continent and the phenomenon continues to grow. With a young and growing population, the African market is booming, although precise statistics are lacking.

"The use of skin-whitening products is increasing, especially among adolescents and young people," Lester Davids, professor of human biology at the University of Pretoria in South Africa, told AFP. “The older generation used creams, the new generation uses pills and injections,” he notes. “We don't even know what these even more concentrated products will do in the long term. »

In Nigeria alone, a giant of some 180 million people, 77% of women - more than 60 million people - regularly use lightening products (WHO, 2011). And the market is of course of interest to cosmetics players. “More and more of our customers want to know about the skin whitening market,” says Rubab Abdoolla, analyst at Euromonitor International.

" Never enough "

While the more affluent consumers can afford to buy tested products, others buy creams that contain dangerous levels of products that inhibit melanin production. These include hydroquinone (a derivative of the carbohydrate banned in cosmetic products in the European Union), steroids, and even lead, which moreover killed many of Queen Elizabeth's courtiers, followers of white powders and sallow complexion.

Despite the risks, the authorities are struggling to control the market, particularly with new whitening products presented in the form of injections or pills containing a glutathione compound.

Nigeria, South Africa and Kenya have completely banned products with high concentrations of hydroquine and mercury, and the South African state of Kwazulu-Natal has asked its inhabitants to "reject all forms of beauty colonial”.

In July, the government of Ghana also issued a precautionary message to warn of the dangers to fetuses when pregnant women take these treatments, especially to make the child's skin look lighter at birth.

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The US consumer watchdog Food and Drug Administration has not authorized any of the injectable products in the United States, arguing that these products "are potentially dangerous and may contain unknown harmful ingredients".

But in Africa, treatments remain easily accessible and little controlled on the markets, on the internet or in specialized clinics and consumers become “totally addicted without even realizing it”.

Dabota Lawson, a Nigerian social media icon, has set up her own cosmetics brand and touts the merits of her creams and injections which also treat acne. "In fact it's like plastic surgery... It's never enough," she admits.

For his part, Pela Okiemute, or "the king of Beauty" as he calls himself, has become the big star of skin whitening products on the Internet with his Blancheur Russe cream, promising a "better hold of the skin, an infinite beauty and a mixed-race complexion". Its Royale Cléopâtre cream, which is presented by the photo of Elizabeth Taylor as the Queen of Egypt, makes the skin "clear and radiant with visible results in two weeks".

"Many of my clients have used bad products before," he says, assuring that his products are not harmful to health, although very effective. Although he refuses to reveal the formula, he explains that they contain kojic acid and snail slime.

Aranmolate Ayobami is a cosmetic surgeon. "Master are glutes" more exactly. But at his clinic on the outskirts of Lagos, behind an abandoned Chinese restaurant, he also offers a five-week course of glutathione injections for 150,000 naira (350 euros). He is categorical: the product he uses, imported from the United Arab Emirates and the United States, is not dangerous to health, and above all, he never exceeds five weeks of treatment. “Sometimes customers bring me lower quality products and beg me to instill in them,” he says. “They tell me 'but Doctor, I'm ready to take this risk!'. We really try to discourage these practices, ”says the doctor.

#melaninpoppin

If millions of Africans whiten their complexion, not everyone appreciates this phenomenon.

“Skin bleaching is a way of gaining access to power and privileges associated with white people,” analyzes Yaba Blay, adjunct professor of political science at Central University of North Carolina, and specialist in the matter. “People want to be perceived as more valuable, and that comes down to skin color,” she continues.

In Africa, beyond the comparison with the former colonist, fair skin suggests work in an office, not exposed to the sun, and is therefore a sign of wealth.

Recent “black consciousness” movements attempt to change these perceptions. The hashtag #Melaninpoppin ('La mélanine, c'est trend') celebrates black skin on social networks, the film "Black Panther" with its almost exclusively black cast, with costumes inspired by traditional outfits and natural Afro hair, has changed consciousness and are signs of the decline of the very Euro-centric vision of the canons of beauty. But we are still far from a mass phenomenon.

"The truth is that my beauty was more accepted abroad than in my own country", regrets Ajuma Nasenyana, Kenyan model, who represented the brands of Victoria's Secret or Vivienne Westwood. "In the world of fashion in Africa, the lighter your skin, the prettier you are considered," she told AFP. “But fortunately things are changing a bit. »

The young doctor Dr Sobande, also perceives this "positive" change on the other side of the continent, in Nigeria. “But it will take a lot of effort to change mentalities. »