• 28/07/2022
  • By binternet
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When the complete does not please receive the last hour alerts of the duty<

The traditional costume of Western men is once again transformed. Premier texte: doit-on dire adieu au costume-cravate?​À Tout le monde en parle, l’émission qui a remplacé la grand-messe du dimanche dans le Québec postcatholique, on ne voit à peu près aucun costume.And above all, goodbye the tie.

Unless I am mistaken, the only ones to have brought it since the start of the new season are Justin Trudeau, the political commentator Luc Lavoie and the businessman Serge Savard, ex-hockey nicknamed "the senator".This dress only does the monk of power.When he does not play golf, President Donald Trump only wears Brioni Baggy at $ 6000 that several stylists deem very badly cut for his swollen figure.

For the rest, everywhere else, the costume is reduced and is pointing out.The full is missing.The complete suddenly seems incomplete and no longer pleases.

We no longer count the articles on the subject of his disappearance.The Guardiandemandait squarely a few days ago if this central clothing of the last two or three centuries has finally expired.The Vox site has summarized the observation this fall differently by proposing that the old symbol of power almost exclusively becomes the sign of a guy in the disorder.

The disguise arranged and tie is that which is resigned to putting on an accused in the court, a bereaved at the mortuary fair and Mark Zuckerberg each time he testifies to the United States Congress.Otherwise, the founding multimillionaire of Facebook remains in jeans and t-shirts like all the magnates of new capitalism supposedly cool.

The figures seem to confirm the predictions of misfortune for the uniform of conformists.According to data from the World Kantar Marketing Trends Firm, complete sales fell 7% last year in the world, that of 6% ties, and those of 10% blazers.

Changes

In fact, the male costume does not die, it transforms.Clothing is a perpetual mutation language.The abandonment of certain rules does not drop them all.Casual Friday is still a codification, even when it is every day Friday.

"The pace, the attention paid to the details, the choice of clothes communicate a message to people and I think it is important to communicate the right message," comments lawyer Pierre T.Allard, partner and member of the executive committee at BCF, specializing in tax law, purchase and sale of companies."No need for a tie to reassure customers on your skill.But if your habit is badly adjusted and your shoes are dirty, you may send the message that you don't pay attention to the details.I therefore make a great distinction between being formal and paying attention to the details.»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»

Quand le complet ne plaît plus Recevez les alertes de dernière heure du Devoir

Lui-même ne porte presque jamais la cravate («une fois par mois, pour un souper»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»), tout comme la grande majorité de ses collègues chez BCF, précise-t-il."I would say that 10% of people wear a tie in the office.And the lawyer is one of the last fairly traditional, even more than the accounting environment.»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»

On the day of the interview, in the very modern chic offices of the city center, Meallard wore a complete two-room apartment surrounded in a forest green tone (with his pocket handkerchief) on a black sweater with tortu collar, a beltand brown color shoes.Like the rest of her wardrobe, these clothes were chosen by stylist Émilie Lambert Roy."I don't have time to shop," he said.Émilie knows what I like, she has an excellent eye and it is ultimately very practical to do business with her.»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»

Trends

He is not the only one.Mmelambert Roy has worked for cheeky, Montreal company offering styling services for twenty years.She dresses men and describes M.Allard as his most adventurous client, capable of accepting daring colors and the very latest trends.

La consultation chez Les Effrontés coûte un peu moins de 400$, «le prix d’un mauvais achat de vêtement»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»», résume la pro rencontrée elle aussi au centre-ville.The typical customer is a very busy professional in the middle of life (around 35-50 years), sometimes with an atypical body, small for example.Eight times out of ten, male customers are recommended by their wife.

"The new generation demands the softening of clothing rules and the oldest accept the change with pleasure," she continues.No one wants a tie anymore.I do not remember hearing a client tell me that he found this comfortable accessory.The pocket handkerchief took the place of the tie and the habit itself becomes less and less formal.In fact, I do not offer almost any more clothes, which count for perhaps 20% of the clothes that I buy.»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»

The look advisor is provided in shops and not with tailors.Mark Patrick Knight, founder of the Sartorialto store in Montreal, admits also selling less costumes, which does not mean that his customers do not find other options, on the contrary.

"There are less and less strict dress codes.But there are still many.The costume is less rigid than it was. Les Québécois adoptent le look plus décontracté, un pantalon et un veston qui ne forment pas un complet, de beaux souliers, un mouchoir de poche ou une cravate de temps en temps»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»», dit-il, assis dans sa boutique, habillé exactement comme ce qu’il décrit.

Tailor -made fact occupies a niche market, obviously.Sartorialto provides p.K.Subban, contemporary dandy could not be more daring in its clothing choices. «Nous, on habille les dandys de chaque groupe»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»», corrige le tailleur en chef.

The Papineau Street Boutique overflows with printed fabrics (chinés, natted, variegated, junks ...) in the colors of the day, including the green forest.The tailor also offers tailor -made shoes.

"The garment is the first business card," said M.Knight.What the costume represents, the conformity, the rigidity, all this was shaken and finally broken by several successive movements over several decades, he says.Fifty years ago, people went to church and showed themselves.There are no more meetings and fewer events and used to be seen.»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»

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