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Decision makers. Can you tell us the story of this beautiful house, European well before its time?

Olivier Brehaut. The acronym Scabal means "English, Belgian, German and Luxembourgish commercial company", which already presaged its European destiny. It was founded in 1938 in Belgium by Otto Hertz, a merchant of fabrics for men who imported fabrics at a time when they had no choice but to have their suits made, since ready-to-wear was not didn't exist. A true enthusiast, Otto Hertz quickly settled in London, on the mythical Savile Row, where he joined forces with J. Peter Thissen who owned a business selling fabrics.

This collaboration then made it possible to export the know-how of the house. And not just in Europe. All over the world, as far as Asia and the United States. Later, in 1989, Scabal experienced a new turning point with the creation in Saarbrücken of a workshop allowing the production of high-end male costumes. Today, Gregor Thissen – executive chairman of Scabal and representative of the third generation – perpetuates the notoriety of the house, one of the specificities of which is to ensure 100% European manufacturing, and to offer fabrics that are always innovative.

That is to say ?

Innovation is in Scabal's genes. When, in the 1970s, J.-Peter Thissen bought our production unit in Huddersfield, he developed the first Super 100's fabric – the Summit – and fabrics incorporating fragments of diamonds – Diamond Chip – and lapis lazuli. Always in search of perfection, Scabal then offered ultrafine wools. This is how he became the initiator of the 120's, 150's and 180's, then the 250's. Today, we notably offer the Scabal Orchid, a fabric made up of an odorous molecule which, when crumpled, releases a delicate fragrance.

Can you tell us about your new collection?

We offer two a year, with fabrics that are all designed in England before being distributed in more than seventy-five countries. Our core business being clothiers, we sell these fabrics to major fashion designers – Hermès, Chanel or Berluti for example. We also manufacture our suits, both for business and ceremonies as for casual. All in a modernized English style, that is to say with more flexible and more comfortable lines. For this fall-winter collection, we have imagined fabrics based on the architecture of monuments in several cities around the world: the Louvre in Abu Dhabi, the Chrysler Building in New York or the Sydney Opera House, in particular. Without forgetting our fabrics composed of gold threads, diamond powders or lapis lazuli.

Your costumes are offered in half-measures. What is it about ?

In France, the half-measure [or mechanical measure, editor's note] is often seen only as "simple" retouching on an existing costume. It is actually a matter of creating a patronage tailored to the customer. And it is a great asset for those whose morphologies do not fit into a standardized base, as well as for aesthetes who appreciate the fall of a sleeve or the adjustment at the height of a martingale on a hunting jacket. . Finally, it is also the possibility of affording a completely personalized outfit at a price close to high-end ready-to-wear.

For a customer, what are the different steps?

Our clients are welcomed by appointment. Together, we choose a fabric from our 5,000 references, then we determine a style according to the cut, the lapels, the type of pocket and the buttoning. Scabal is the only one, to my knowledge, to be able to guarantee rigorously controlled quality, from the creation of the thread of the fabric to the installation of the sewn button. The third step is to take action. A month later, the piece is ready for a first fitting. But our customers don't have to come to us. We are always able to offer them an appointment at their hotel, home or office. And, of course, we adapt our schedule to their rhythm.

Many personalities have contributed to the reputation of the house. Can you name some of them?

Suits or fabrics branded Scabal are worn by personalities from backgrounds as diverse as politics, sport, the arts. Thus, in 1971, Scabal asked Salvador Dali to give him his vision of men's fashion for the year 2000. These reflections gave birth to a collection of a dozen works of art [carefully preserved in the coffers -forts of society, Editor's note]. You can also see Scabal fabrics and costumes at the theatre, at the opera, at the cinema. In The Godfather, Titanic, Mission Impossible, or more recently in The old man and the gun, with Robert Redford. Without forgetting the series, like the British Peaky Blinders.

Kings have also called on us, in particular the Belgian royal family. American presidents, from Lyndon B. Johnson to Barack Obama, have also placed their trust in us. It must be said that the tailor of the White House (late Georges de Paris) was a fan of the brand.

Do you have any specific projects for 2021?

We had to dress the Belgian delegation for the Summer Olympics in Tokyo, as well as for the Disabled Games. Japan is an important market for Scabal; we were therefore all the more proud of it. Unfortunately, the health crisis did not allow us to go through with this project. If all goes well, it should be for 2021. Likewise, as filming, theater and operas are gradually resuming, we should reconnect with our regular collaborations. We also make costumes for the Grévin Museum. This was the case, for example, for the statue of the violinist Renaud Capuçon, which made its debut there in 2019. Finally, we regularly organize convivial moments with our partners: artists, shoemakers, watchmakers, barbers and producers. of cognac with which we offer tastings. We hope to be able to reconnect with these habits this fall.

Laurent Fialaix