(AFP)-Lanvin presented a collection with dark elegance while Paul Smith celebrated diversity in his cast and his colorful collection, Sunday on the last day of Parisian male ready-to-wear parades for spring-summer 2016.
Lanvin, between Streetwear and Tailoring
At the School of Fine Arts, where the Lanvin parade was held as usual, the 44 silhouettes surveyed the podium to the sound of "La Fête Noire", song of the French Flavien Berger, which gave the tone of theshow.
"It's quite dark and nocturnal, it's not Flowers and Beach atmosphere," Dutchman Lucas Ossendrijver, in charge of Lanvin's men's collections, commented with artistic director Alber Elbaz.
The pants are sometimes adjusted, sometimes larger at high waist with slightly oversized costume jackets, sewing threads fly like fringes from a sleeveless jacket or a t-shirt, for an artisanal effect.The details are neat and the palette gives pride of place to black, navy, burgundy, with subtle fawn prints.
French actor Reda Kateb, often dressed in Lanvin, was present at the parade."I find that there is a freedom that we rarely find in the world of fashion, especially things that can sometimes seem + casual + like zipped jackets, which are worked with the elegance of detail and mixtures of materials"He told AFP.
Alber Elbaz explained that he wanted a parade "without gimmick", which is not "clip video", insisting on workshop work and know-how at work.
"It was a question of taking the comfort of the sportswear and mixing it with the tailor, taking the lightness of the sportswear and the fabrics + which breathe + to use it in suit pants", he summed up.
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Paul Smith celebrates the difference
In Paul Smith, all men are in costume.But nothing classic, on the contrary: vermilion elephant legs, slim accordion or canary yellow pants are worn with excessively wide crossed jackets.
The hair is often long and the dark misery glasses but the English creator has fun with his dandy models than Bad Boys, sowing large black ants on white pants, or rabbits on a shopping bag.
Without forgetting the boots: rock but very fresh with their leather in primary colors.
The British Creator underlined the diversity of his cast: "The theme is independence of mind, of which 32 different boys are coming from many countries, all over the world, and many of themparade for the first time, "he told journalists after the parade.
"The idea is that we see different skin colors, different hairstyles, different shapes," he added.
There is no particular style in this collection: "Some silhouettes are very wide, others very skinny," said the creator.