If the British stylist Kim Jones is inspired by the emblematic female pieces of Christian Dior for his men's collection, presented Friday in Paris, he admits that wearing such outfits could endanger in some countries.
"We live in cities and they are incredibly open, but as soon as we leave them, it is not the same thing," Kim Jones told AFP before the parade that took place in a representative settingThe Alexandre III bridge and the docks of Seine during the week of ready-to-wear man in Paris.
"There are 40 countries in the world where, if you were dressed like that, you would be killed," continues the creator, artistic director of the men's collections at Dior, who in 2020 had replaced Karl Lagerfeld in the Fendi house where he is inload of female collections.
- Pull embroidered with silk flowers -
The central room in its collection is the masculinized "bar jacket".This silhouette in an hourglass, sensual and ultra -fetched, is emblematic of the New Look imagined by Christian Dior in 1947.
"It is a tribute to the founder, but designed in a male way.She is not old or theatrical.These are cool and modern jackets that give a proud look and flatter a young man, "said Kim Jones who combines in this new cut the British male costume and the French haute couture tailor with raw details.
In this collection, "You see everything Dior represents: the bar jacket, embroidery, leopard, prince of Wales tiles.Gardening pants because obviously Christian Dior loved gardening, "said Kim Jones.
"It's very Dior, quite simply!".
Gray in a multitudes of nuances dominates the palette.
"The colors are very Parisian and very dior, these are also my favorite colors," says the stylist wearing a hooded sweat.
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Moccasins or pockets set with crystals, neckline on the back, coat embroidered with sequins: the "feminine" touches are omnipresent.
The white sweater decorated with pearls and silk flowers cut by hand, very "miss dior", is worn on a wide shirt with gardening pants and mules-sabots combining chic and practical.
- Stuck in the 1940s -
The male-feminine mixture is an ordinary thing in a fashion week, where men's fashion frees itself from the shackles of old-fashioned manhood and where the "non-gendered" aesthetics are claimed by most houses.
London has given up the distinction of men/women's fashion weeks and if Paris officially maintains it, most brands have mixed collections.
But for Kim Jones, 42, there is still a long way to go.
Child, himself has traveled a lot with his geologist father."I'm lucky, I grew up all over the world so I saw everything and I understand that we live in a bubble".
"One thing I discover now that I make women's clothes, how limited men are limited are.The male locker room has not changed much since the 1940s, "says the designer.
Yet people have changed their way of life and are looking for "ease and lightness": "I see it through sales, speaking to customers".
He considers that his current priority - with the world always mired in the pandemic - is to create pieces that are both formal and informal, joyful and easy to wear.