Issey Miyake packs his Spring/Summer 2021 collection into a single box for Paris Fashion Week<

Japanese designer Satoshi Kondo presented his very poetic first collection for the Issey Miyake women's line just a year ago. This season, due to the Covid-19 pandemic, there was no parade on the catwalk but a digital show, extended by a physical installation in the Parisian premises of the label. Discovery of a playful and colorful collection.

Make the collection as compact as possible

It was during the preparation of the last collection that Satoshi Kondo, examining the number of boxes ready to be sent to Paris, realized the volume of clothes that had to be transported there. The designer then wanted to make his next line as compact as possible. He therefore imagined the spring-summer 2021 collection entitled "Unpack The Compact" so compact that it can fit in a single box: "This collection explores the idea of ​​making clothes travel in a compact form all over the world, in order to to share the wonder and the joy of unboxing them. The video takes up the concept of the collection presenting the appearance of the garment as well worn as exposed "he says.

Tie, roll, fold, stack, layer… clothes present a multitude of creative possibilities to make them compact. Beyond usefulness and comfort, they provide "whoever unpacks them the pleasure of seeing them transform".

Adapt to the health context

The production of this collection required adaptation to the health context of recent months: there was no question of doing a fashion show in Paris following travel restrictions, hence the choice of a video showing both the clothes worn by the models than folding techniques.

To work, the Japanese team, also confined, has adapted: for example, this season's print is inspired by a photo of the living room (with sofa, curtains, paintings, table, vase and flowers....) d one of the team's collaborators. This print is found on a dress that is assembled with strings. The display mannequins (on which the clothes are installed for the physical presentation at the brand's headquarters) were made using plastic tubes (like a Lego set) nested inside each other. These dummies also compact.

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Stop motion animations punctuate the parade

Issey Miyake presented his collection in digital version on October 2 as part of the calendar of the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion. The decor of the show is almost an exhibition, since it takes place in an immaculate white warehouse with objects and paintings hanging on the wall and studs on which is placed, for example, a blue zipped vest that stands up as if by a miracle. . The models enter this space and walk through the exhibition. At the same time, stop motion animations show how the clothes fold and unfold.

"In the second part of the video, the clothes stored in the wooden box suggest that the entire collection can be shipped in one crate and presented somewhere else. The story told in the video continues with the installation we present in Paris. The crate has now arrived safely and the clothes have been unpacked and displayed" adds Satoshi Kondo. The final scene suggests that the collection can be shipped in a single crate for presentation elsewhere, in this case at the brand's Paris headquarters.

The collection bends to all creativity

The spring-summer 2021 collection is declined in four themes that we discover at the Parisian headquarters of the brand during the presentation. The "Form body" vest is made of a molded material to form a flexible shell that envelops the body. The molding and the use of zippers on the front and back of the vest allow the two parts to be assembled without any seams.

The "Out a piece" theme offers pieces that fit together using zips, giving shape to 3D garments. The stretch fabric brings a soft and fleecy aspect while the black zippers add a graphic contrast. Some pieces, like the long jacket or the blouson, play with zippers to create different styles.

The "To Go" series combines a bag and a garment: you wear it, you fold it and you take it away. The coat and poncho transform into bags similar to suit covers while the pants are designed with an integrated pocket. They are all made in a waterproof and wrinkle-resistant fabric, designed for everyday life.

Finally, the "Spongy" mesh series is stretchy like a sponge. This stretchy blend of cotton and polyester envelops the body. The zigzag stitches allow the garment to be adjusted without it sticking to the skin. Each garment can be rolled up, compacted.

Satoski Kondo, a designer from the Miyake seraglio

Satoshi Kondo, from the design studio, graduated from Ueda College of Fashion. In 2007, he joined Issey Miyake Inc as a designer at Pleats Please and Homme Plissé. In 2016, Satoshi Kondo also became the designer of the Homme Plissé line. The same year, he worked on the Ikko Tanaka Issey Miyake project launched by Mr. Miyake where he was responsible for representing the two-dimensional works of the graphic designer Ikko Tanaka so that they could take shape on clothes. In 2017, Satoshi Kondo joined Miyake Design Studio.