Dressing in Viking times: outfits and costumes<

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The Viking outfit is essentially made up of two materials, linen and wool. The wool, taken from the long-haired sheep raised on the farms, is woven at home, on a large vertical loom. The warp threads are stretched by stones which are simple perforated stones, the weft thread is slid by means of a shuttle operated by hand and packed down using a rammer.

The making of Viking outfits

This work, which is rather the prerogative of women, allows the manufacture of a solid and warm canvas called "vađmal". Useful for clothing, the manufacture of tents and sails, this fabric is also used as currency to pay compensation in the event of a fine during a judgment and goods when the Viking embarks to leave on an expedition. This profession is described in a very macabre context of struggles between clans, through the poem Darrađarljóđ, in the saga of Njáll le Brûlé. One Friday morning, after the battle (...) a man called Dùorrudr came out. (...) He went to the pavilion, looked inside through an opening, saw that there were women there and that they had a canvas all mounted on a loom. There were men's heads as tension weights, intestines as weft and warp, a sword as a rammer and an arrow as a shuttle. They then sang a few stanzas: (...)

The fabric is woven Of human entrails And harshly stretched Of men's heads Of bloody spears It serves as blades Of iron are the uprights Of arrows, the shuttles. , Pléiade Library)

The Viking does not disdain, for special occasions, adorning himself and wearing silk. This was acquired through trade and plunder. It is notably imported by Rus' merchants from Constantinople and resold in the great trading posts of northern Europe.

The natural colors of woolen garments range from brown to black to gray. But fabrics can also be dyed, and this is then a mark of prosperity and wealth. • Blue is one of the most common colors. It is obtained from woad grown in Scandinavia. It is a color with a sacred character, alluding to the dark blue color of Odin's cape. • Red is also very common. This color is obtained from Madder, which is purchased from the major trading posts in Europe. • Yellow and green are also colors used. The yolk could have been obtained from the onion, a plant cultivated by the Scandinavians, or from the broom or the Gaude. Green comes from a mixture of yellow and pastel.

Linen, which is more difficult to dye, often remains natural in color. To dress, the Viking also uses many furs such as those of the bear, the reindeer, the sable, the marten which are produced locally or imported.

The civilian costume

The Viking is concerned about his appearance. Saturday is bath and laundry day. On this day, men and women bathe in large buckets of soapy water, wash their bodies and their hair. The men shave. After the bath, they can go to the ovens. Clothes are changed to be cleaned.

The man

The undergarments are composed of a very simple linen shirt and boxer shorts which are made of wool, useful for the Scandinavian winter. Over this, the Viking puts on a long-sleeved blouse that falls to mid-thigh and is tightened at the waist by a leather belt, possibly enhanced with bronze plates. Then, he puts on pants, which can be of different types, either long and floating, or long and sticky or puffy. In the latter case, breeches held by staples or straps complete the outfit. The blouse is often covered with a long cape, lined with fur or down and fastened on the right shoulder using a penannular fibula. It releases the right arm which can thus easily draw the sword attached to the left side of the belt. Blouses and capes are decorated with stripes, embroidery, gold and silver threads for the wealthy.

On his feet, he wears leather shoes, folded over the instep and attached to the ankle by a strap, or even boots. He takes great care of his beard and his long hair, which he likes to braid and untangle. with cetacean bone or elk antler combs. He can sport different types of felt hats and woolen caps. His hands are protected by mittens and large mittens made of wool or felt.

Wife

The Viking woman wears a tunic with or without sleeves over which she puts on a chasuble dress, of pleated wool, held at shoulder height by a pair of often oval brooches. This chasuble dress is adorned with braid and embroidered; she fastens there, at the level of the left breast, her sewing accessories. She can cover herself with a shawl, loose or fitted, which ends in a point at the lower back and which she attaches with a fibula.

The hair is left free in the young girl, but it is styled in the form of a bun, ponytail, braids in the married woman. A scarf tied around the neck protects them. She gladly adorns herself with jewelry, bracelets, earrings, pearl, amber and gold necklaces.

On her wedding day, she wears a linen veil – to protect her from the evil eye or because her fiancé must be the first to reveal his wife's face – and a braided crown of flowers and foliage. Having become mistress of the house, she wears on her belt the keys to the safes of her home, which contain valuables and the pantry.

The military costume

The standard armament of the Viking warrior is composed of a sword, a bow with its arrows, an axe, a spear and a knife. A shield, a helmet and a broigne allow protection. The sword is double-edged; it is often engraved with runic characters that give it magical power. The scabbard is made of wood, lined with fur and covered with leather. The ax is of several types. Equipped with a short or long handle, the blade more or less wide, curved and possibly finished with points, it is the typical weapon of the Viking and a formidable weapon in his hands. He uses it as a throwing weapon or an assault weapon.

The spear is either a javelin or a spear. In the first case, it constitutes a throwing weapon; in the second case, it is a thrusting weapon that the use of stirrups allows to use with force. The iron, in the shape of a diamond, is fixed to the handle by nails which have a religious and legal value. The shield is round and measures approximately one meter in diameter. It is made of painted wood and is ringed with metal. In the center, the iron umbo protects the handle.

Most often, the Viking wears a leather or wool cuirass and a boiled leather cap to protect himself. However, the helmet can also be made of metal. It is then conical and extended by a nasal. A leather cuirass can be replaced by a broigne or a chainmail of metal plates connected to each other.

Bibliography

• Régis Boyer, The daily life of the Vikings, Hachette, 2003.

• The private life of men, “In the time of the Vikings”, Hachette.

• The Vikings, the Scandinavians and Europe 800-1200, catalog of the 1992 Grand Palais exhibition: the illustrations of objects are taken from this catalogue.