Does the habit make the powerful?<

Fashion exists because society stages us all, and on this social scene we must deal with our own image and come to meet other looks.This is why fashion is so serious ... ", says philosopher Marie-José Mondzain in her book" Fashion ".

Today, power has taken a capital place in our company.Clothes have a coded language that says longer than you imagine.As the Honoré de Balzac formulated: "Power does not consist in hitting hard or often, but just hitting.»»

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We should agree on what power is.We will not succeed in three lines.Spontaneously, we imagine it financial.She is also decision -making, sporting, anarchist, political or religious.It is a form of power.She is freedom, luxury.In each environment, she has her intrinsic codes.The clothes, the attitude and crowd of tiny details allow it to guess and demonstrate it.

Alexandre Fiette, curator of the Geneva Museum of Art and History, specialist in fashion issues, explains the importance of details: "Power is read in detail.Thanks to them we obtain the recognition of a group.These same details are misunderstood by the uninitiated or even ridiculous for another group.»»

The semiotician, Luca Marchetti, professor at the HEAD, at the IFM in Paris among other schools, bids: "These rules are negotiated, in real time, in a group.In this context these signs have a meaning.»» M.Fitte then gives a practical and eloquent example of these silent codes: "In the cities, a certain category of young people likes an immaculate white clothes.In another courtyard, that of Louis XIV, the immaculate white meant that we did not work, therefore that we had power over the people.These codes have crossed the centuries and today are related to drug trafficking.But they symbolize the same thing: power.»»

Le costume, emblème du pouvoir

“A garment, almost unchanged since the end of the French revolution, is an emblem of power: the costume for men. Il personnifie la puissance sur la place publique, dans le monde financier, juridique et politique»», explique Elizabeth Fischer, professeur et responsable de la filière mode et accessoires de la Head à Genève.He gives more than the exchange, he imposes himself as a authoritarian brand.

"Remember the outfit of Eveline Widmer-Schlumpf on the day of her election to the Federal Council.»» Immédiatement, l’image se rappelle à nos souvenirs, la silhouette frêle de M ^me Widmer-Schlumpf, le salut à trois doigts, son costume gris anthracite et une chemise blanche.Neutral and masculine.As if the accession to power was only granted with these virile attributes there.

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« Les femmes qui accèdent au pouvoir portent le costume et même s’il est taillé pour leur morphologie, il fait toujours référence au costume masculin tant dans les teintes (sombres), la matière (le lainage souvent) et même dans le positionnement des poches»», souligne Elizabeth Fischer.

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In fact, always, political and leading respectability does not know what to do with the female locker room. Parce qu’une image vaut mille mots, M ^me Fischer donne encore à voir avec une apparition de la ministre française Cécile Duflot à l’Assemblée nationale – une robe à fleurs bleue et blanche.She was whistled. Une manigance de M ^me Duflot, peut-être, une démonstration que l’ascétisme vestimentaire demeure la norme dans les sphères dirigeantes.

Jack Lang, in 1985, was also heckled when he appeared in the rostrum of the Assembly, a Blazer at Col Mao, therefore without tie.The tie !Incarnation of power or not?She is courteous, the tie, but also pass-startout, indicates a certain seriousness, a obligatory rigor in certain professional circles, but is she statutory of power?

La cravate, le nœud de l’affaire -

"Isolated, it means nothing.It shows a powerful distinction when it is in harmony with the rest of the outfit: the quality of the jacket, pants, shirt and its collar, socks and shoes.Each detail counts. Tout est dans la forme du nœud, de préférence le « four in hand»», la longueur (à la limite du haut de la ceinture), la largeur (9 cm)»», commente un financier italien qui souhaite rester anonyme.

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He slips, by the way, that the most perfect tie knot in the world is that of Barack Obama." Too perfect.I dream of seeing a fold.»» Adrian Reber, styliste de sa marque éponyme, professeur et responsable du secteur mode des arts appliqués à La Chaux-de-Fonds, observe : « La cravate est le seul accessoire masculin avec lequel l’homme peut jouer.Before there was the watch, now it's less characteristic.»» La montre, objet relevé également par Alexandre Fiette et notre intervenant financier italien domicilié à Genève qui attestent en chœur que la montre n’a plus autorité dans les codes typiques de la puissance « sauf si le modèle est rare ou dégage une aura de valeurs humaines et de savoir-faire précieux»».

Le sportswear, l’insoumission au travail

And sports ?This is the undeniable incarnation of physical power.Specialists note that he is more and more present in daily life but also on the catwalks of fashion shows."Sport is one of the areas where the power is best observed. Il est, aujourd’hui, une métaphore de l’individu dans notre société ultraperformante»», commente le sémiologue italien Luca Marchetti.

He analyzes for us these details that we do not really perceive - the sinusoids on sneakers, reinforcements on the shoulders, the muscles highlighted, the technicality of the fibers."Such efficient sports equipment has no real value for a non-professional.It is an analogy between sport and daily life.This shows that we can receive blows, that we must protect ourselves from the other.But, that also says that the individual, despite the rain, the wind, the pain, the pangs and the confits, resists and persists.Man is resilient.»»

He also emphasizes that these relaxed outfits that we only put on at home put a message across."These outfits say that ease, comfort and free time have an important place in our lives.It is a form of power, because by this choice we refuse to submit and devote ourselves solely to work, like past generations.»»

Le « genderless  », la prisede pouvoir sur soi -

And the new generation?"She erases, erases the evidence until her gender membership.In pop music, Christine and the Queen is an example of this movement.She decides not to wear signs of sexual belonging. C’est encore une forme de prise de pouvoir sur soi et sa nature anatomique»», ajoute Luca Marchetti.

Alessandro Michele, Messiah with a Christian pace, artistic director of Gucci since 2015, also revolutionizes genres completely. Sa mode est « genderless»», dit-on.Men, graciles, wear shirts in transparent lace, flower costumes and parade with women.Alessandro Michele, Malin Commercial or Societal Devin?

We really want to think that his genius comes from his ability to observe the world, to chew it, to digest it, then restore it, by clothing, in a prophetic vision of a certain society.It has nothing to do with virile power, do you think.It's true, but is it not as a power as the questioning of established codes?

"You know, power is also to have consideration for the other is a rare form of elegance in our society. Et une forme de puissance»», conclut Alexandre Fiette.You will never choose your outfit by chance.Especially if you have a message to convey.

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