At Dior, haute couture as a tribute to the work of the workshops<

What about haute couture? And especially in Dior, the most important French house in the matter?“Elegance is a whole, and what is not seen as much as what is seen.”Said Christian Dior.It is perhaps the characteristic of haute couture in what is most fascinating: hide, in the apparent simplicity of a garment, a embroidery, a revealing back, the hours andWorkshop work hours.The parade presented today in the gardens of the Rodin museum was in this perfectly faithful to the spirit of the creator who opened his house seventy-five years ago, the day after the war, and re-enchanted the world with his newLook.

Re -enchant, but in simplicity, this is also what this face -to -face parade (and even these parades, Dior having organized two sessions of the same show) seemed to.Even though we learned of the sudden disappearance of Thierry Mugler, brilliant couturier supporter of maximalism having made her reputation, the Dior house returns to the sources of her identity, as also proves the recent parade of her signed man collection KimJones.While the threat of successive confinements seems to be moving away, this return to normality (but haute couture, gets along) promises to be gently, poetry, and femininity.And even guests having made the trip, like the Italian super influencer Chiara Ferragni, the model Cara Delevigne, and the Monegasques Pierre Casiraghi and his wife Beatrice Borromeo.

We find in the collection what makes the phenomenal success of Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior: the pleated, the capes, the ancient inspiration outfits reworked in today's prism, the flat shoes, the mannequin cabinwise nymphs, walking with a slow step - and at a good distance from each other.But the inheritance Dior, vibrating here in the tones of gray, the emblematic Basques of a bar jacket, the work of the shoulders, is associated with a graphic modernity and a way of chaining the looks which signs its power and theoriginality.From the first passage, the idea of history is celebrated as much as it is shaken up by a first geometric pattern outfit, evoking both a digital creation and the know-how of cutters, embroiderers, pleators and other rare trades working forDior and this geometric body entirely embroidered with crystal tubes and jet tubes.

A first feline-chic passage which does not prevent the taste of volumes and super simple lines, like a line of pencil: long coat in black wool, pants tailor, evening jacket and day-to-wool dress in fluid woolen wool… But behind a tight palette of colors (black, ivory, ecru, shades of gray ...), the seam does not forget to shine.Even the most refined silhouettes, Dior from the first glance, are twisted by the shine, at the forefront of which the embroidered tights and the bridle shoes, a spirit also available in full look on a “moving” embroidery body andSquares called “Silver Night”.

Classic with a twist say the Anglo-Saxons.The twist, here, is also that of the installation of the works, entirely embroidered by hand, of the Indianmadhvi and Manu Parekh couple.Married since 1957, this duo- love also embodies the idea of a certain continuity, which could well be the foundation of new modernity.