Alaïa: what to think of Pieter Mulier's first collection?<

It was the event of this beginning of Fashion Week Haute Couture. Pieter Mulier, who had just arrived as artistic director of Alaïa last February, presented his very first off-calendar fall-winter 2021-2022 collection last night.

In an atmosphere of deconfinement on the wire, the Haute Couture week follows in the footsteps of the one which presented the men's collections. Great expectations are raining ahead of this busy calendar which risks setting the tone for the next fashion weeks and even for the start of the school year in September. If the houses had the green light from the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode to parade face-to-face, many preferred to opt for a presentation mode in two stages: first by appointment for professionals in the sector, then a video disclosure on their social networks. However, for his first ready-to-wear fashion show in the Alaïa temple of perfection, Pieter Mulier favored the good old method of public fashion shows. Selected guests were able to witness the first steps of the Belgian designer within this institution to which fashion fans are so attached.

Glamor is not dead

Four years after the death of the smallest of great men, Azzedine Alaïa, we wondered what could become of the house. But the new management knew how to debunk the rumors that announced it was over. Better still, she brings glamor and over-the-top fashion back to life with this fall-winter 2021-2022 ready-to-wear collection presented off-calendar as Mr. Alaïa did. Pieter Mulier, known for having been Raf Simons' right-hand man for his eponymous brand, offered an ode to the genius of Azzedine Alaïa on a wild catwalk near the brand's historic headquarters. A statement that took the form of a letter placed on the seats of each guest. How to get behind the one who seems to have invented a style in its own right? That was Pieter Mulier's challenge. Result ? He came out of it brilliantly. The first silhouettes are pure Alaïa with 2021 sauce: iconic corsets, insolent and mysterious hoods and almost royal fabrics... The designer has achieved the incredible by marrying the flagship silhouettes of the house with a glamorous, minimalist and contemporary aesthetic. . Fringes, games of transparency and over-the-knee gladiator boots… We all dream of making our comeback on the dancefloor in Alaïa. In pictures, the most beautiful silhouettes of the parade.

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