Return to Parisian Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2021-22 week in four favorite videos<

During the COVVI-19 pandemic, the fashion houses had to organize themselves to offer a vision of their collection, in the form of videos and short films, available on a dedicated platform."This increased creativity will definitely continue when we return to the physics.The physical scenography will thus be expanded by a digital scenography "explained Pascal Morand, the executive president of the federation of haute couture and fashion, during the last week of haute couture in January 2021.

This was the case this season, only seven houses out of thirty three presented their Fall-Winter 2021-22 Collection in face-to-face collection. Retour sur les shows Schiaparelli, Viktor & Rolf, Franck Sorbier et Zuhair Murad en vidéos coups de coeur.

Schiaparelli: "This joy that pushed me to get into fashion"

"For two years, I was able to say that nostalgia did not interest me, that it was not my subject.This season, however, it is with her that it all started.What would happen if we combined a little of Manet, a little Lacroix, a little of the 1980s, a little of the 1880s, a little matador, a little extraterrestrial, a little ingres, aLittle brilliant, a lot of colors?The answer is here with my fourth couture collection The Matador, "said Daniel Roseberry, artistic director of Schiaparelli before adding" It also coincides with a return to innocence, to this joy that pushed me to get startedin fashion".

No superfluous staging for the video because the pieces presented are so powerful that they are self-sufficient.The collection that pays homage to the iconics of the house is available in three parts.The first celebrates the jackets of the past: the short white denim jacket inspired by matadors is thus decorated with embroidered tubular sleeves and black silk acorns, to wear on a structured tulle skirt.The second part focuses on the body and jewelry, a key element of the figurative vocabulary of the house: an almost full -scale hand thus serves as a belt loop, while a minaudière is in the shape of a giant giant lips.Finally, the third part addresses the celebration of color.

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Franck Sorbier: Meeting with a relic

Franck Sorbier loves poetic universes and draws his inspiration from dreamlike dreams.His collection "The Spirit of Places - Chaalis - the servant, the passer and the relic" sets the tone."The title sounds like a philosophical fable, a dreamlike tale but he speaks, above all, despite his backward references, of an increasingly burning news which has the subject of richness and poverty," explains the designer.

The servant, the smuggler and the relic are the characters of this modern tale turned to the Chaalis estate in the forest of Ermenonville.In this film, the servant embodies a peasant woman who evolves in a bucolic universe "which translates my desire to count.A pauperism inspired by a series of shots by artist Jackie Nickerson who photographed agricultural workers in Zimbabwe in 1996, and who emphasized the clothes that the workers themselves made, "explains"Franck Sorbier.White, ecru, ivory, beige and Grège make up the palette of models whose romanian petticoat dress is the base ennobled by superposition of capes, waterproof, vests, short jackets, shawls ... Thematerials are raw or with rustic appearance.Another character: the passer.This intermediary, between two cultures and two eras, allows the meeting with the relic, inspired by the book treasures of the catacombs which evokes, in the years 1723, a skeleton decorated with gold threads, precious stones, fine pearls."I saw it as a dream of eternity and as I aspired, too, in opulence, we created our own relic and dressed it of coats in jacquards of floral spirit and tank paper, in mineral brocade, in Greek orthodox damask, in baroque tones.The parts are reborn in between-two, gold and copper mechanical lace, water pearls, rucheés and pale gold guipures "explains the designer.

Viktor & Rolf : une reine d'un jour

La collection The New Royals du duo Viktor & Rolf s'inspire de la nouvelle génération de la famille royale et de leur tentative de montrer une réalité humaine derrière la façade d'une institution.Like the monarchy, fashion has its own hierarchy, courses, power alliances and kings and queens.The collection pays tribute to the survival instinct of an institution that Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have been used for almost 33 years: fashion.

The two creators wanted to show, positively, how everyone can become a queen or behave like a king.It doesn't matter if their furs is plastic, paste jewelry and polyester patchwork dresses.Each look includes three layers - a dress, a coat and a belt - and is decorated with Swarovski crystals. Le duo a également présenté une sélection en avant-première des prochaines chaussures et sacs Melissa / Viktor & Rolf.The collection was also presented by appointment at the Expiatory Chapel in Paris, dedicated to King Louis XVI and Reine Marie-Antoinette.Monument built on the ground where they had been buried after being guillotined Place de la Révolution in 1793, to be transferred later to the Saint-Denis basilica.

Zuhair Murad: a party in Venice

Zuhair Murad founded his house in 1997 in Beirut and has scrolled in Paris, since 2001, collections that mix old heritage with a modern touch.It is in the garden of a high school that the Lebanese creator invited his audience to discover a collection imbued with the spirit of Venice.

After his long months of pandemic, he pays tribute to the city of the Doges which fought invasions and diseases without ever getting rid of his passion for luxury, the arts and the beauty.At this contemporary Venetian festival, under the rustling of taffeta and opulent capes sometimes stolen from a painting by Carpaccio, are hidden pampilles and crystals, glass iridescents with unreal shades, sheaths.Combinations are adorned with crystals and caftans of oriental princesses are thrown on revisited revisited outfits.Capes and long reborn tulle gloves are inspired by carnival codes as well as open passes, asymmetrical necklines, puffy sleeves or capes capes.Velvet, taffeta, flaw and metallic organza reinterpret classics while the silver lurex introduces a contemporary note.The melted glass is transfigured into shaded embroidery.